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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Converting the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft Chest Freezer
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:47 PM   #271
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Originally Posted by hoplover
my temp controller has settings for the temperature and temperature differential (how far you let the temperature get from your set temp before it kicks on) I was wondering if anyone is using this type, what settings there using

Mine works the same way. I have had it set at 38 with a 4*diff, and itbworked great, just kicked it down a degree to see how it does.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:10 PM   #272
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my temp controller has settings for the temperature and temperature differential (how far you let the temperature get from your set temp before it kicks on) I was wondering if anyone is using this type, what settings there using
FWIW, I have the set point (temperature setting) at 46*F using a 10*F differential. This holds the beer at 40*F. The beer temperature varies less than 1*F with this configuration. The compressor runs for about 20 minutes and is off for about 60 minutes with ambient (room temp) at about 74*F. The freezer is a 7.5 cu ft model with a 2 X 6 collar. A muffin fan running continuously circulates the air in the freezer and the collar is insulated with rigid foam. I've been experimenting with wider and wider differential settings to see how this affects the temperature swing of the kegged beer. I plan to increase the differential setting until I get a swing of 1.5 degrees min to max which I figure won't even be noticeable in the served beer. I'm trying to find a good compromise between minimizing compressor cycling while keeping the temperature variance of the beer at an acceptable (un-noticeable level).
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:15 PM   #273
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on for 20 and off for 60? That sounds more like it. Some other people were posting it only turns on a couple times a day.

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Old 05-09-2011, 12:25 PM   #274
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If you hinge the lid to the collar, what are you guys doing with the holes that are left behind on the freezer exterior from the hinge when it was originally mounted to it?

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Old 05-09-2011, 03:54 PM   #275
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If you hinge the lid to the collar, what are you guys doing with the holes that are left behind on the freezer exterior from the hinge when it was originally mounted to it?
I just put the original screws back into the holes and called it a day.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:23 PM   #276
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I've heard of "planing' boards on a band saw ... never on a table saw ... you must have some very skinny push sticks!
A 2x8 on edge stands so tall that the blade does not quite make it halfway through the width of the board. The top of the board is therefore "safe" to hold on to. As long as the board goes straight through there is no problem, but it is difficult to correct for misalignments. The blade binds easily. I do confess being more than a little nervous doing this though. Now that I think of it, I don't recommend people doing this.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:56 AM   #277
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Quaffer, I have been looking at other peoples wiring diagrams for the same love temp controller. I just got mine in last night and plan to wire it tonight but on these other diagrams I never see them jumping 2 terminals. Why do you do that?

Also, are there different versions of the tsx-10140 that I should worry about, like making sure that if I use your wiring diagram I need to make sure the love controller is exactly the same. The part number is but I don't know if I can check for something else.

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Old 05-10-2011, 03:11 PM   #278
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If you hinge the lid to the collar, what are you guys doing with the holes that are left behind on the freezer exterior from the hinge when it was originally mounted to it?
I didn't do anything with the un-used holes. They are on the back side of the freezer and not in view. The holes do not penetrate the interior wall of the freezer, so there is no air leakage or any problem like that. You could easily plug the holes with a screw if it will make you feel better, but really nothing to worry about at all.
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:19 PM   #279
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To run power to the fan, i wonder if you can cut a hole in the hump on the inside of the freezer, under that is the compressor, and run a the wire to the fan, through that hole, and out. Silicone that hole and be good to go?

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Old 05-10-2011, 04:50 PM   #280
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To run power to the fan, i wonder if you can cut a hole in the hump on the inside of the freezer, under that is the compressor, and run a the wire to the fan, through that hole, and out. Silicone that hole and be good to go?
Yes, you could do it safely that way. Through the lid is another option. I would drill through the back edge of the lid and down at an angle so that the wires would not be visible and the top of the lid would remain intact. Through the collar (if you are using a collar) which is what I did.
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