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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Converting the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft Chest Freezer
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:44 AM   #181
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I was lucky. I ordered the black Frigidaire 7.2 over the summer and it sat in my basement until about 1 month ago. I did check out the lid when I received it, but not the sides, nor did I plug it in. However, it's perfect, so with all the reported dents and dings, I got lucky. I've been working on my collar for a while now because as a woodworker, I decided to wrap the hemlock 2 x 10 box in some awesome 1/8" birdseye maple I got off Ebay. I also turned my own tap handles from cocobolo and I made 1 in figured maple because I plan to dedicate 1 for soda and 3 for beer. I thought about waiting until the very end, but I might start a new thread with what I've accomplished so far. Uh.....yes, I'm over budget, but who really has a budget. If I don't add up the costs....then it does not exist. :-)
Cool project please post pictures during the progress stages.
Wood is a great medium in which to express warm beauty. Prost.
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:35 PM   #182
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Quaffer:

In post #7, I just noticed that you have your fan connected to a micro switch. Is this something you bought separately and then screwed it into the side of the freezer body?

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Old 03-14-2011, 06:24 PM   #183
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Quaffer:

In post #7, I just noticed that you have your fan connected to a micro switch. Is this something you bought separately and then screwed it into the side of the freezer body?
The switch stops the fan when the door is opened so that it does not expel the cold air, and it prevents me from getting my fingers caught in a spinning fan. The switch breaks one of the low-voltage wires for the fan. I attached it to the inside of the collar. I made a little pocket in the foam board for it.

I have another optional switch mounted on the left side at the compressor compartment. It is a three-position on-off-on switch by which I can turn the fan off, on continuously, or to run with the compressor. It is connected to the hot 120V side of the 6VDC supply. I run the fan continuously when I put a new (warm) keg in the kegerator. I don't know that it makes much difference; I put it in more or less for the fun of it. I decided not to complicate the wiring diagram with these switches. The more complicated it is the more opportunities there are to make a wiring mistake.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:29 AM   #184
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Quaffer,

I am building a Keezer based off of your design and had a couple quick questions. You say that you used 2x8's and then cut them to 1.25, is there any reason that 1x8's could not be used? With the insulation nearly flush with the boards I would think the thickness would not matter much. I have found 1x8's at my local Home Depot but can't seem to find 2x8's.

How far from the top of the collar did you drill the tap holes? I saw 4" on the centers but just that you put them as close to the top as possible.

Thanks,

~Danny

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Old 03-15-2011, 01:24 PM   #185
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If you don't mind my 2 cents, I'll offer an answer. I'm surprised you could not find 2x8's. I bought 2x10 hemlock at Lowe's, but both should have it. I'm sure you could get away with 1x8, but now you're probably at 3/4 inch thickness. The thinner you go, the less structural rigidity, but with the foam you might gain some back. I am currently building a similar design and I located my taps 2 1/4 inches down from the top edge of the collar. It's really a matter of visual taste and pouring height comfort. My collar (finished height is approximately 9 inches and is constructed from 2x10 (I trimmed both edges square to final 8 1/2" height, added a 1/2" thick maple top frame to hide the pink foam board) and my keezer is on a platform suspended by casters, so it's pretty tall. I found that 2 1/4" down was a good height for me and I like the way my tap handles extended above the lid of the freezer. I hope that helps, but I'm sure Quaffer will respond. I'm an east-coaster, so I have a few hours on him.

HD: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd_4545-99999-L...ntity_sold%7C1

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Old 03-15-2011, 01:53 PM   #186
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I used 1x8 maple, worked out fine. Been running for a couple years now and stays cool well.

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Old 03-15-2011, 06:31 PM   #187
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Quaffer,

I am building a Keezer based off of your design and had a couple quick questions. You say that you used 2x8's and then cut them to 1.25, is there any reason that 1x8's could not be used? With the insulation nearly flush with the boards I would think the thickness would not matter much. I have found 1x8's at my local Home Depot but can't seem to find 2x8's.

How far from the top of the collar did you drill the tap holes? I saw 4" on the centers but just that you put them as close to the top as possible.

Thanks,

~Danny
The seal is one inch wide so I wanted the collar to be at least that thick. The boards I used had a .25" round-over, so by making the boards 1.25" thick I have just enough wood there to properly engage the seal. I attached the collar to the body so I had to provide a surface on the collar for the seal to seat against. If you instead attach the collar to the lid then you can use the original surface on the body to seal against, but you will have to figure out some other issues when moving the seal from the lid to the collar.

I don't remember the distance from the collar top to the faucets but I can check that tonight. I more or less eyeballed it for good looks. I wanted some wood to show above that black cover plate.
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:22 AM   #188
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How far from the top of the collar did you drill the tap holes? I saw 4" on the centers but just that you put them as close to the top as possible.
~Danny
Danny, I drilled the holes 1 3/4" from the top of the collar to the center of the tap holes. This distance is not critical at all; whatever looks good to you is the best.
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:45 AM   #189
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Default TSX-10140 Programming

I am posting the values I have programmed into the Love temperature controller, model TSX-10140.

SP Set Point: 45 now (varies from 33 to 50 depending on use)
r0 Differential hysteresis: 1
r1 Lower value for SP: 32
r2 Higher value for SP: 80
d1 Temperature defrosting stop: 70
d2 Defrosting duration: 0
d4 Delay of first defrosting: 20
d5 Display of defrosting: -d-
d8 Defrosting intervall time: 8
d14 Defrost counting mode: ct
c0 Minimum stopping time: 5
c2 On time of fault cycle: 5
c3 Off time of fault cycle: 55
c4 Minimum ON time: 0
c5 Minimum time between activation: 0
P1 Ambient probe adjustment: 1
P2 Defrosting probe adjustment: 0
P4 Number of probes: 1
H1 Keyboard protection: no
H5 Access code to parameters: 0
H6 Probe type: ntc

Notes:
r0 Differential hysteresis. I have the probe in a plastic drinking glass with about 1.5" of water located on the compressor hump. This combination provides good run-time and off-time.

c0 Minimum stopping time, needed to prevent the kegerator to start with liquid refrigerant in the compressor. After the compressor stops it takes up to 5 minutes for the refrigerant in the compressor to completely evaporate. Initially I had this set to something much less, and as I was programming the controller the compressor started but could not turn. I unplugged it for 5 minutes and everything worked again. It is not necessary to set this above 5 minutes.

P1 Ambient probe adjustment, use this to calibrate your temperature probe using a known good thermometer.

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Old 03-24-2011, 02:48 PM   #190
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Danny, I drilled the holes 1 3/4" from the top of the collar to the center of the tap holes. This distance is not critical at all; whatever looks good to you is the best.
One thing to think about when determining the faucet mounting height is whether you want your tap handles to protrude above the level of the top of the freezer. You're going to probably tend to put stuff there (glasses, whatever)...and at my house, the cat likes to sleep up there as well. So I decided to drill the holes low enough that my 4" tap handles aren't above the level of the top (so the cat doesn't brush against them and turn them on).

If you're going to use larger tap handles, I guess it doesn't matter one way or the other.
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