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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > 4 Faucet PVC draft tower
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:42 AM   #1
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Default 4 Faucet PVC draft tower

Jumping in to home brewing with both feet, I decided I was going to convert my old Kenmore single tap kegerator to hold 4 Corney's of home brew and dispense all 4 brews at one time. Problem was I had a single draft tower and very little cash to spare.

Hence a home built tower out of 3" PVC pipe.


I used a toilet ring for the base, I just cut it down with a jig saw and then sanded it smooth. If I could do it over I would have screwed the base under the particle board top you see and just cut a bigger hole in the particle board top and made the tower taller. But live & learn!



First attempt. I bought a stick of 3" black sch 40 PVC pipe. My first attempt is below, just a basic 3 tap tower. Yes there are three staggered holes, one high on the left, one middle center, & one low on the right. I installed this & it worked fine, it just wasn't 4 taps, and I would never be able to get a drip pan to cover all three taps.

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Old 02-12-2009, 03:44 AM   #2
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So on to the next attempt. I decided a tee configuration was what I needed. It was smaller then a U configuration ( which I had seen on this forum out of PVC) but would still support 4 taps (or more if you needed). I laid out the holes on my first Tee attempt, although not very straight. I used a hole saw and a hand drill to drill the holes. I decided I could do a better job on the hole alignment so I scrapped the first attempt ( or so I thought). After a little more accurate measuring and marking I came up with 4 much better aligned holes in my second attempt. I then went on to tackle the leg of the tee which would fit into the toilet ring screwed to my kegerator counter top. I needed a way to attach the tee leg to the tee top as securely as possible. I decided to half circles into the leg, thinking the tee top would fit together with the leg. It didn't! I ended up cutting several half circles in a few pieces of pipe at different depths to see what would work. I ended up making a template in order to get both sides exactly the same depth and distance apart.




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Old 02-12-2009, 03:45 AM   #3
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Great job! Interesting look on the 3 tap even though you didn't use it. individual drip trays perhaps?

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Old 02-12-2009, 03:46 AM   #4
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Now was the tough part getting the top to fit with the bottom. I tried using a vise and pressure fitting the two together. That didn't work. So I decided to heat up the base a bit knowing PVC is pretty flexible when hot. Took a heat gun to the base and I was a little too aggressive on the first attempt, and kind of melted the PVC pipe a bit. But what I learned was that the hot PVC would spread out allowing the top to snugly fit in between the notches.

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Old 02-12-2009, 03:48 AM   #5
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On to making another base. I pretty much used the below generic Harbor Freight $14.00 version of a roto zip to do most of the pipe cutting. And the below drum sanders in my hand drill for finish work. I suggest you practice in a few pieces of scrap pipe, but once you get the hang of it it's easy. Oh & cut outside!!! The cutting bit makes a huge mess of pvc chips. Add a little static electricity and can any one say sweep for an hour?


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Old 02-12-2009, 03:48 AM   #6
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So I chilled on the heat on and got the notches to spread out and fit perfect. The base came out great! I used regular PVC glue and fitted everything together in the vise. Remember the first tee top I cut holes in that were not aligned to great. Because my box was full of black pipe I mistakenly grabbed the crappy tee top, and glued it to the nice base. I didn't notice until it was all sanded, painted and I was installing the faucets

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Old 02-12-2009, 03:49 AM   #7
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So I used the crappy tower for a few weeks till I had time to make another base as I still had the tee top with holes perfectly aligned. It kind of worked out better because with my first attempt I not only used PVC glue but I also used a plastic epoxy around the outside seam. This was a PIA to sand down, I as I found out really wasn't necessary.



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Old 02-12-2009, 03:50 AM   #8
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Third attempt below. Holes lined up better, and seams were cleaner after sanding. Primed the whole thing and painted silver with 3 coats. I used a hole saw to cut the two large holes in the back to make it easier to plumb. My kegerator backs to a wall so you can't see the holes in the back. I used foam sleeping pad (the blue stuff) from Walmart to insulate the whole pipe. I used pipe insulation from inside the kegerator through the top into the base of the tower for insulation as well. I cut circles of some OD green foam mat for the big holes in the back of the tower. The leg of the tee is not glued into the base. It's dry fit after a little sanding. You can see I didn't paint the bottom where it fits into the base. It's easy to pull it out, and or turn it if necessary.




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Old 02-12-2009, 03:52 AM   #9
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Overall dimensions are 12" tall from bottom to top of notch or where top tee meets. 15" total height. 11 1/2 " wide. Shank holes are 3/4" sanded out to fit shanks. Rear holes are 2 1/4"



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Old 02-12-2009, 03:53 AM   #10
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