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Old 12-10-2012, 09:58 PM   #11
RichE
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So that batch is in the can. I thought since so many were willing to take the time to read and reply, that I would recap. Pretty much everything went as planned. I did the "All In" water with the recommended 3.39 gl of water to 4 lbs 1oz of grain bill for a 1.75 gal batch (per recipe and method provided by Beersmith). OG came out to 1.050 very slightly under the expected, but I ended up with 2 1/4 gallons in the fermentor instead of the 1.75 I planned for. So it would appear that my efficiency was better than expected but either my boil off was way low or I didn't leave much behind to the grain/or trub.
Here is where I have a concern. After boiling and fermenting, I poured the wort back through my bag to strain out the hops and break material. Problem is, the bag quickly became clogged. It was a large bag, but fine mesh. After sitting there for several minutes and with half of the wort still in the bag, I used my hand to move the liquid around in the bag, everntually having to squeeze the bag to get the rest of the wort out. I didn't think about it until late that night that I don't know how sanitized my hand was. I didn't plan on my hand coming into direct contact with the wort, and so wasn't real careful about what I had touched or to wash my hand with sanitizer. Hopefully it doesn't come back to bite me.

Any suggestions for filtering the trub out of the wort when moving to the fermenting bucket without having to hand squeeze the wort. I didn't have any issues with filtering out the grain, but the hops clogged up real good.

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichE View Post
...Any suggestions for filtering the trub out of the wort when moving to the fermenting bucket without having to hand squeeze the wort. I didn't have any issues with filtering out the grain, but the hops clogged up real good.
Did you put the wort back through the same bag you mashed in? If so, you should never do this again. Grain is covered in lactobacillus and a few other nasties. That's a surefire way to souring your beer. I wouldn't even do it if you were soaking your bag in starsan after- too many nooks an crannies in a bag like that to hold air and not get sanitized.

Anyway, just dump all the trub in to your fermentor. Zero reason to keep it out. It's insoluble, so it's not going to make your beer any cloudier.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:21 AM   #13
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I use a hop bag during the boil, started this while doing extract. You have to drain the hop bag after the boil and it takes a few minutes because the bag is so fine but it keeps the wort clear of hops.

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Old 12-11-2012, 02:58 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by C-Rider
I tried full boil BIAB and sparging. The only diff I can see is the extra time it takes to sparge. Eff is no better. But I'm talking about using say 4.5 lbs of grain in a 2.75 gallon amt of water. I brew only 1.75 gallon bataches and I can really squeeze every last drop out of the grain. I only loose about .25 gallons to the grain.
Interesting, i do small bian batches also (2.5 gal), and recently found out that dunking the grains into the ~170* water, stirring like crazy for 10 mins then letting it sit for another 5 increase my efficiency by about 12%. My last brew i got 82% using this method.
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:46 AM   #15
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Biab generally ends up with more trub in the bottom of the fermenter then the standard method due to no vorlauf and since no mash beds are used to filter the wort. That being said, all of that extra material will settle out during fermentation. Some people let their ales ferment for 1 month to make sure that everything has completely settled out. I just wait until the gravity has become stable for 3 days (usually takes 2 weeks or so) then decrease the temperature in my fermentation chamber to 34F for a week.(coldcrashing, also known as lagering). After this, assuming u used whirlfloc, the beer is always crystal clear.

When beer sits at such a low temp, everything (including krausen foam on top) falls out of suspension very quickly and tightly compacts at the bottom of the fermenter. While I cold crash all my ales for a week, but even a 2-3 days works wonders. My personal view is that this also helps to clear off-flavors and contaminants in the beer, but that's just my theory.

I brew 15 gal batches on an electric biab system. I get 80% mash efficiency with no mashout.
I use a corona type mill, set as tight as possible with a corded dewalt drill and grind the grist into powder basically. Also I use swiss voille bags. I dont bother squeezing, but do let the bag hang ontop of the kettle until it stops dripping and I get around to removing it..

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Old 09-04-2013, 03:12 PM   #16
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>>So let's flip to the other side of this question, full volume mash vs. mashing with only the strike water quantity and adding the sparge water to the pot after 60 minutes

The only reason I don't mash with full volume is I hold back 1.5+ G to do a dunk sparge (actually I place the bag in a pot with 1.5+G of water for 10 minutes) to get more sugar out. I can increase my efficiency by almost 10%.

I see no reason not to mash with less than the full volume otherwise. I've never read any posts or write ups or blogs where people hold back water only to add it during the boil.

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Old 09-04-2013, 08:32 PM   #17
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Yea, that would be the whole point of doing a non-full volume mash: to sparge.

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Old 09-07-2013, 11:40 PM   #18
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I really dont see the point in not mashing with your full volume. For me it defeats the purpose of BIAB, ease and simplicity. If you have to heat more water it requires another vessel and another source of heat. For me this is more work and more clean up I have always mashed the full volume of water, heated it up to a mash out temp before pulling the grains and then boiled like normal.

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Old 09-11-2013, 05:30 PM   #19
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I don't believe you really need to raise the temperature to mash out. The only reason is that you raise the temp in a traditional setup is to stop the mash process, so pulling out the bag is what stops the mash process for biab.

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Old 09-11-2013, 07:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcLight View Post
>>So let's flip to the other side of this question, full volume mash vs. mashing with only the strike water quantity and adding the sparge water to the pot after 60 minutes

The only reason I don't mash with full volume is I hold back 1.5+ G to do a dunk sparge (actually I place the bag in a pot with 1.5+G of water for 10 minutes) to get more sugar out. I can increase my efficiency by almost 10%.

I see no reason not to mash with less than the full volume otherwise. I've never read any posts or write ups or blogs where people hold back water only to add it during the boil.
I will have to try this the next time I brew. What temp is the water you dunk your bag into?
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