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Old 08-04-2014, 02:28 PM   #21
Roundhouse
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I've only done biab 3 times and they were all around 82%-83%. Low 80's seems to be a common range. With fly sparging on a standard system I top 90% but it's a MUCH longer brew day.

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Old 08-05-2014, 04:40 PM   #22
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I typically get in the mid to high 70's. If I actually sparge and mash out it get into the mid 80's

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Old 08-05-2014, 08:52 PM   #23
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Ok - so I'm stepping up slowly from extract to BIAB. Just picked up a 10-gal cooler from Homedepot for $40. Had a choice between the 10-gal and the 5-gal. I figured the 10-gal would future-proof my setup.

Going to attempt a partial mash Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone. Hoping to hit north of 60% efficiency.

Course - if my efficiency is too high, my ABV is going to be WAY over spec.

My concern has been my water. And after reading the last few posts here, I'm a bit more concerned.

My water Ph is about 7.3 according to a water report. Anything I should be worried about?
Exact water profile (according to water company report) is:
Cl - 92
Ca - 59
Mg - 15
pH - 7.3
Na - 72
SO4 - 63
Alkalinity - 138 as CaCO3 - roughly 168 as HCO3.

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Old 08-05-2014, 10:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happywanderer View Post
Ok - so I'm stepping up slowly from extract to BIAB. Just picked up a 10-gal cooler from Homedepot for $40. Had a choice between the 10-gal and the 5-gal. I figured the 10-gal would future-proof my setup.

Going to attempt a partial mash Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone. Hoping to hit north of 60% efficiency.

Course - if my efficiency is too high, my ABV is going to be WAY over spec.

My concern has been my water. And after reading the last few posts here, I'm a bit more concerned.

My water Ph is about 7.3 according to a water report. Anything I should be worried about?
Exact water profile (according to water company report) is:
Cl - 92
Ca - 59
Mg - 15
pH - 7.3
Na - 72
SO4 - 63
Alkalinity - 138 as CaCO3 - roughly 168 as HCO3.
I'm no expert on water but the sodium seems kinda high to me and the Cl to SO4 ratio would give you a higher malt perception. I just use RO or distilled water and build my water from there. I have a quick question for you though, if you got a 10 gal cooler then why are you doing partial mash? Just go full all grain man! You should easily hit 70% efficiency as long as you squeeze the bag. And be sure to add enough water to account for absorption.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:03 PM   #25
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1 step at a time. Limited right now by pot size. And don't have a wort chiller. Those two items are all that remain for me to go AG BIAB. Just ordered by outdoor burner. Bayou Classic sp10 I think. ~55,000btu. Should get the job done.


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Edit - Ya know what... I just thought about it and if I'm set on BIAB - which I am - screw it. I'm taking the cooler back and getting a 10-gal pot to go with my burner. Already got a 24x24 mesh bag for the grain too. So - my next batch will be AG. Wort-chiller... need to build a wort-chiller....

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Old 08-06-2014, 12:14 AM   #26
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I follow the same process with my BIAB brew process. I use the step mash process I start around 142 then do two more steps before mash out - over 90 minutes. My yields are always higher then the software calc.

I typically do a kind of a batch sarge with the bag - make a small batch ending up with a gallon in a separate fermenter - so I can play with hops and yeast in the small batch. I enjoy the variety! It's a little extra work but I don't mind the extra beer. Just have to watch out for tannins in the second running.



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Old 08-06-2014, 04:43 AM   #27
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I'm using a 30qt (7.5G) pot and I sparge about 1-2G depending on the batch volume. Consider doing the same, there's not really a NEED for you to do full volume BIAB.

I haven't done this yet, but I will once I get my wedding brews out of the way. Try nochill brewing, transfer boiling wort to an airtight HDPE container, get the air out. Wait till it's cooled down to room temp, a few hours or so. Maybe overnight. Pitch yeast in the morning.

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Old 08-13-2014, 04:09 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by pricelessbrewing View Post
I'm using a 30qt (7.5G) pot and I sparge about 1-2G depending on the batch volume. Consider doing the same, there's not really a NEED for you to do full volume BIAB.

I haven't done this yet, but I will once I get my wedding brews out of the way. Try nochill brewing, transfer boiling wort to an airtight HDPE container, get the air out. Wait till it's cooled down to room temp, a few hours or so. Maybe overnight. Pitch yeast in the morning.
Wouldn't cooling it down that slowly prevent the cold break from being thermalized out of the wort?
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:51 AM   #29
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Wouldn't cooling it down that slowly prevent the cold break from being thermalized out of the wort?
Apparently not. The nochillers get lots of break material aftee transfering from their containers to primary, and equally clear beers. Don't really see the downside personally besides having to wait a bit to pitch yeast.
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https://docs.google.com/a/emich.edu/spreadsheets/d/12yJrdQRgZtvsvyg1ZWIOgiv6nCSPBUzgUotV_bvFORc/edit?pli=1#gid=633996997

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