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Old 02-12-2014, 03:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ArcLight View Post
Its a good video.

One more tip for canning wort - you don't have to make "weak" 1.037 wort. Instead what you can do is use many small jars with higher gravities, that when poured into a flask, that is then topped off to 1 liter will results in 1.037 wort.
This way you can make many smaller jars rather than fewer larger jars.

This both saves space, and lets you prepare a lot of wort jars.
The problem with this is that now your wort isn't sterile. When you have it all in one mason jar for the starter you pop the top pour it into the sanitized flask and you are done.

I have been using extract in this process, but I have toyed with the idea of grain to lower the cost...

This was a great video. Is it necessary to boil it after you mash? since it is going to be boiled in the pressure canner, could you just add to the jars after you lift out the bag?

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Old 02-12-2014, 09:14 PM   #12
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The problem with this is that now your wort isn't sterile. When you have it all in one mason jar for the starter you pop the top pour it into the sanitized flask and you are done.
flips
If you add in boiled and cooled water its pretty close to being sterile.
I have a carboy of water that was boiled and cooled that I use for topping off if necessary.

I also don't think that the bacteria that are going to ruin your beer are a big risk from using tap water. Now if the water was lying out, exposed, gathering dust, that would be more problematic.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:38 PM   #13
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I agree that pressure canning is the best way to can starter wort. Is it possible to use the boiling water bath method if you acidify the canned wort down to a pH below 4.4? I think this will work, as botulinum cannot reproduce in a pH below 4.5.

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Old 02-13-2014, 02:37 AM   #14
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I agree that pressure canning is the best way to can starter wort. Is it possible to use the boiling water bath method if you acidify the canned wort down to a pH below 4.4? I think this will work, as botulinum cannot reproduce in a pH below 4.5.
That could work

BUT ...

How would you acidify the wort? Add Phosphoric acid?
Will you then dilute it when ready to use?
I don't think the yeast will like a pH 4.4 environment, and it will affect the taste of your beer.
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:49 AM   #15
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Default Botulism Warning

The title should have read BIAB PRESSURE canned wort. kombat is 100% correct. Here's a good read on the subject found in "Brew Your Own" magazine...

BOTULISM WARNING
In home food preservation, foods are divided into “high-acid” foods, with a pH below 4.6, and “low-acid” foods, with a pH above 4.6. High-acid foods can be safely canned using the boiling water method. It is recommended that low acid foods be canned in a pressure cooker, where the increased pressure means that water boils at 240 °F (116 °C) or higher. The pH of boiled, unfermented wort is around 5.0–5.2, making it a low-acid liquid.

The reason for the high-acid/low-acid distinction is that spores of the bacterium Clostridium botulinum can survive in low-acid foods, even if they have been heated to 212 °F (100 °C). Clostridium botulinum produces 7 different classes of botulinum toxin, labeled A through G, and all are powerful neurotoxins. Botulinum type A, the most toxic, is 15,000 times more potent than VX nerve gas.

Botulinum toxins stop impulses in the nervous system from triggering muscular contractions. Symptoms of botulism usually arise 24–36 hours after exposure to the toxin and include dry mouth, weakness, double vision, vomiting, depressed breathing and a progressively intensifying paralysis leading to death.

The presence of Clostridium spores in raw honey is why doctors recommend not feeding it to infants or small children.

Although spores of the bacteria are found almost everywhere, cases of botulism are actually relatively rare. Most years, around 110 cases are reported in the US, with most occurring in infants or small children that have eaten honey or other affected foods. On average, less than 30 cases per year result from improper home canning.

In fermented wort (i.e. beer), the alcohol content, low pH (4.0–4.4) and anti-bacterial components in hops prevent C. botulinum from surviving. In preserved, unfermented, lightly-hopped wort, it is possible for the bacteria to grow. Although the bacteria will die if the wort is fermented, any toxins produced by the bacteria will not be neutralized.

To minimize the possibility of botulinum poisoning, can your starter wort using a pressure cooker or add acid — such as phosphoric or lactic acid — to your starter wort such that its pH is 4.6 or below if you are using the boiling water method. (High hopping levels alone are likely not enough.)

The boiling water method is presented here because it has been used successfully for many years, but it does allow for the possibility of botulinum poisoning. Although the probability of this is low, the consequences can be severe if it does occur.


The pressure canner I use is an "All American" 941. It will hold 20 quart jars or 32 pint jars...or a combination of both. In the video I boiled for an hour for a combination of reasons. I needed some time to clean the jars; I only milled the grains once so the gravity came in at 1.025, so I needed time to boil it down to 1.040 before adding the cold water; & finally to boil off DMS? Don't know if it's necessary for a starter; but figured it wouldn't hurt anything.

ArcLight added a great tip As a result I'm thinkin..."Double Down" on the grain bill to condense the wort & pressure can 16 pints in the lower level. Then fill ten or eleven quart size jars with water on the top rack. What's leftover after diluting should be good for washing yeast...right?...

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Old 02-15-2014, 02:37 PM   #16
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Dude... I love the video! You have talent..not just in making beer! Cheers!


Sent from my Home Brew!

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