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Old 03-21-2011, 01:58 PM   #31
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very doubtful that they'll be checking ABV at the comp...

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Old 03-21-2011, 03:21 PM   #32
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I just did my second BIAB and have had over 70% effeciency both times. I do have a pulley set up and I makes things a lot easier.

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Old 03-21-2011, 05:07 PM   #33
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I just did my second BIAB and have had over 70% effeciency both times. I do have a pulley set up and I makes things a lot easier.
Alton Brown has a pulley setup that may work for those of us who can't or don't want to permanently attach pulleys to ceilings. In season 10, he did an episode called "Fry Turkey Fry" and built a rig off of his aluminum (I think) ladder that would accept a pulley system along with a cleat to lock the grain bag in place above the brew kettle. It seems to work well and is adjustable in position so you can make sure you don't get any swing or motion when lifting it out of the brew pot. I'd trust the set up to hold at least 40 lbs when using a sst bucket like Seven did, if your mounting is secure enough, with some decent sized bolts.

I'm going to try this method out when I do my first BIAB, but I need a fermy chamber built before this so it'll probably be a few months.

Great advice though!
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:24 PM   #34
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'If' I calculated right (using The Calculator from BIABrewer) I think I hit 83%

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Old 03-21-2011, 06:23 PM   #35
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'If' I calculated right (using The Calculator from BIABrewer) I think I hit 83%
with a fine crush and a small grain bill.. yep 83% is very easy to hit BIAB... when you go up in grain bill for bigger beers.. it drops a couple points.. for my last 11.5 grain bill I hit 77% for 1.059 OG
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:21 PM   #36
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Once mash reaches 170-degrees, cut the heat again and let sit at 170-degrees for 10-minutes. This mash-out step is important when doing no-sparge BIAB since it will help improve brewhouse efficiency and it also makes the grain bed more fluid which helps when draining the grains in the following steps.
After 10-minutes at 170-degrees, mash-out is complete.
Damn I didnt know this step. I will add it to my list of things to try. I pretty much do my BIAB like this. I didnt have all my grains cracked because of brew store. Between that and this step could have alot to do with my low eff.
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:34 AM   #37
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Overview
I’ve documented the no-sparge BIAB brewing process that I use here. This is the process that works well for me.

(Credit to all of thee BIAB brewers out there who took the time to document and share their ideas, experiences, and results. I couldn’t have done any of this without their valuable information.)
Great setup and thanks for the detailed thread on this process.

Question: I noticed you have a piece of sheet metal over your burner and under your boilermaker. What is this for?
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:06 AM   #38
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Great setup and thanks for the detailed thread on this process.

Question: I noticed you have a piece of sheet metal over your burner and under your boilermaker. What is this for?
That is a heat shield that keeps the sight-glass from boiling and the plastic cover on the valve handle from melting. It also protects the thermometer casing from overheating and breaking. Although I temporarily removed the built-in kettle thermometer for BIAB.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:16 AM   #39
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Nice documenting I have almost 10 no sparge BIABs done on my single vessel electric system. I am averaging about 77 percent with the lowest @ 74. I am hooked on this method.

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Single Vessel BIAB is all I need....Until we figure out the no vessel technique.

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:47 AM   #40
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I'm getting ready for my first all-grain BIAB and wonder if anyone is JUST using a mesh (voile) bag and not the added strength of a metal basket. Am I asking for trouble in trusting a cloth bag to hold all that wet grain? Also, what's the average batch size folks brew when using this method and a keggle?

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