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Old 06-26-2013, 04:46 PM   #1671
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That's why I make my batches .25 gal larger then my planned finish size. All the trub goes into the fermenter.

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Old 06-26-2013, 04:53 PM   #1672
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That's why I make my batches .25 gal larger then my planned finish size. All the trub goes into the fermenter.
I make small batches, 2.5 gallons, so I brew up an extra gallon. I never know how much will be evaporated, just having the burner up a little can affect how much wort I have left.

For me it is better to have a little more wort then I need then to have to take some wort from the bottom of the pot with lots of trub.

I stir the outside of the pot to vortex the trub to the middle of the pot, but before I started making more had to use some very thick wort.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:27 PM   #1673
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Yeah that's my current solution, increasing the batch size. Just curious if there are other things people are doing.

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Old 06-26-2013, 06:39 PM   #1674
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Except standard trub management (irish moss, whirlpooling), sometimes I'm using cheese cloth. Sanitized by boiling and soaking in starsan. It fits perfectly into the big funnel. And wort is just poured through it. Always some tiny particles will find their way to the fermenter, but mostly what is left, it's a sludge from hops & cold break material

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Old 06-26-2013, 11:33 PM   #1675
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Anyone here tried going straight from a BIAB hot into a Sanke for a BIAB - No-Chill combo for max simplicity?

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Old 07-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #1676
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Did my first BIAB this weekend and i was shooting for 1.050 and hit 1.039. I used the recipe from here

My water temperature didn't change much after adding grains so I started mashing at 158. I didn't want to add cold water since I was pretty sure my amount estimate was going to be very close or high. Temp dropped about 1.5 degrees every 10 min.

I think part of the problem was I can't remember if I waited 10 minutes after getting to heating to 170, son was in the garage with me and it just slipped my mind to wait. So, basically after mashing, I raised temp to 170, then I think cut the heat, got pulley setup, then pulled it out, allowing it to drip for 15 min. Would it be normal to pick up that many gravity points from the 170 degree "sparge?" I also ended up leaving between .5 and a whole gallon in the kettle, most of which was trub, but some may have been viable wort. Ran out of room in the fermenter, hind sight i should've put it into 2 fermenters with a little more than 3 gallons in each.

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Old 07-01-2013, 03:59 PM   #1677
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Kinda sounds like you didn't get the evaporation you planned for if you ran out of room, which would definitely contribute to lower gravity.

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Old 07-01-2013, 07:07 PM   #1678
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After looking back at my plans, the recipe, and some calculations I think you're right. Pre-boil my gravity was 1.015, I had planned to do a 90 minute boil since I used Pilsner malt, but only ended up doing a 60 minute due to being distracted and just operating by habit from my first 6 or 7 brews.

The extra 30 min of boil would've "burned off" .5 gallon going by what I think my evaporation rate was. With a pre-boil of 1.015 and an OG of 1.039, looks like I was getting .012 per half hour. Add .012 to 1.039 and you get 1.051. So, maybe my estimation were pretty much spot on, just forgot to boil for an extra 30 minutes.

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Old 07-01-2013, 07:20 PM   #1679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewHaas View Post
Anyone here tried going straight from a BIAB hot into a Sanke for a BIAB - No-Chill combo for max simplicity?
Even simpler, Sometimes I no chill in the stainless brew kettle, then pitch yeast and ferment in the same kettle, then rack to kegs...works well IMHO.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:56 PM   #1680
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Quote:
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My water temperature didn't change much after adding grains so I started mashing at 158.
I just finished my 4th BIAB this past weekend, and while I hit a 74% efficiency (thank you, BarleyCrusher) I still have the same problem with mash temps after adding grain.

I heated the water ten degrees about my target mash, but it seems like the temp just doesn't drop quickly - maybe a degree or so every 15 minutes. As a result my mash temps have tended to stay on the higher side of my target.

Without resorting to having to add cold water - which would throw off my water volumes - I'm not sure how to improve on that.

Perhaps the question should be: how long should it take - in theory - for temps to drop to a target range using room temperature grains in a BIAB brew, with strike water approx 10 degrees above target mash temp?
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