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Old 06-16-2013, 01:08 PM   #1661
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I figure my best option is to secure the bag with something on the outside somewhere close to the top, and to make a koozy container with the reflexiv I have laying around.[/QUOTE]

Cover the top with aluminum foil and you can wrap it around the clips to make sure heat stays in, then cover with your insulation.

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Old 06-18-2013, 12:24 PM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymadigan View Post
Second, My clips that I was using to hold the bag on have corroded because of the steam in the pot. Is it best to replace them every other brew or is there another option? The clip arms stick in the mash some, but it is the clip that is corroding.

Any help is appreciated.


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Originally Posted by Irishwhiskey View Post
I've seen some people use a nylon bunggie cord by wrapping it around the pot and bag towards the top
I started out using the clips to hold my bag in place, but I soon figured it would be much easier to just use a bungee cord. I just fold the bag over the top of my kettle and then wrap the bungee around the overhanging part of the bag and it works great...
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #1663
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+1 to mashing in a preheated oven. I preheat to 170 and turn the oven off when the pot goes in. That way when mash is done, no insulation / wrapping needs to be removed prior to the boil.

I also use the elastic paint strainer bags which I replace every 10 batches or so. Just remember to turn the heating element off when the strainer bag is in to avoid burning a hole in the bag - I learned that lesson the hard way (but still ended up with a good beer)

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Old 06-18-2013, 03:39 PM   #1664
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I brewed yesterday and had much better success.

First I ground my grain twice at the LHBS, I still think I had way too many whole grains.

I have one of the http://biabbags.webs.com/ bags and I just untied the knot at the end of the cord and used the cord to tie the bag to my pot. I felt pretty stupid, I tried so many times to tie it with the knot still in the end, just couldn't get it tight enough. I also made a koozy wrap for my kettle, I have to be outside in the garage so no oven. I also have severe arthritis in both hands so I probably couldn't lift the full kettle into the oven anyway. My strike temp was 158F and in an hour it went down to 150. About half the time it was uncovered because I made the koozy while I was mashing. Next time it will be better.

For the koozy wrap I used two layers for the sides and made a top piece that is 3 layers thick that I can use a bungie or velcro strap to hold it tight against the kettle. It is held together with blue tape and I will put it together better before my next brew.

I don't know how to compute all of those brewhouse efficiencies yet, but I took a gravity reading about a third of the way through filling my fermentor and it was at 1.054. I took another reading from the trub when i was cleaning up and it read 1.070. I'm not sure what that means yet.

Thanks for all of your help.

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Old 06-18-2013, 05:10 PM   #1665
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About the different SGs. I took a reading while I was draining my bag and it was much lower than I was expecting. After draining the bag completely, I stirred the wort and then took at reading and it was almost spot on. So I'd suggest stirring before taking a reading in the future.

Sounds like you got a pretty good process going. Cheers.

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Old 06-19-2013, 11:21 PM   #1666
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I am trying to figure out how to do a BIAB lager. I am having surgery in the end of August and want something in the fermentors so when I am done recovering, I don't have to start from scratch again.

My thought was to just do the basic BIAB mash and be done with it. All of the instructions call for a Decoction Mash and I have no idea how that would be done with the BIAB system. Is this rght or do I have to look elsewhere to figure this out.

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Old 06-20-2013, 04:11 PM   #1667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymadigan View Post
I am trying to figure out how to do a BIAB lager. I am having surgery in the end of August and want something in the fermentors so when I am done recovering, I don't have to start from scratch again.

My thought was to just do the basic BIAB mash and be done with it. All of the instructions call for a Decoction Mash and I have no idea how that would be done with the BIAB system. Is this rght or do I have to look elsewhere to figure this out.
It's easier than you would think with BIAB and most of us are doing it all the time (see the number of times this thread references a 'mash out' where we raise the temp to make extracting the sugars easier- that would be the most common form of a 'single decoction mash' used in brewing). Since you are able to direct fire your mash with the typical BIAB set up to move to the next target temp it is really easy, and all Decoction schedules are based on raising the temp followed by a rest period. To do it accurately you will either need to do some math, or spend some time with 'trial and error' on your set up to figure out how your set up's thermal mass will come into play. The trick is that once you shut off your burner, the temp will continue to rise because of the stored energy within the mass of your kettle, burner etc that will transfer to the mash over time, so you need to calculate what temp you will need to kill the heat at to make sure that your mash temp comes to rest within the range you want. Other than that, make sure that the grains aren't resting on the bottom so you don't scorch them (or your bag for that matter) stir constantly while you are heating and follow the standard recommendation for heating a mash- Do not exceed 2˚-4˚F/ minute rise in temp.

Technically this isn't a true Decoction Mash since you aren't removing part of the mash and boiling it to get the heat rise to the next rest and is instead a 'step mash' but the end result is basically the same as far as achieving the desired conversions at the various 'rests'. There are some who insist that the process of boiling the removed mash changes the flavor some over a step process (improving it) but I have yet to find anyone who can tell the difference between an actual Decoction brew vs the exact same recipe that follows the same step mash process like I outlined (be it from BIAB or some other temp adjustable mash processes- RIMS or HERMS)

You will need to know which Mash schedule you need to follow since different schedules are better for our modern, well modified malts than the traditional ones used by the Germans etc (they were just doing what they needed to to make great beer from the ingredients available to them at the time). A typical/traditional Triple Decoction schedule (the grandfather of all Decoctions for German Lager Styles- Pilsners, Dunkels, and Bocks) will typically have an Acid Rest (~97˚F for 1- 1.5 hours), Protein Rest (122˚-133˚F for about an hour), Saccrification Rest (the one that most home brewers know and care about- 149˚-158˚ for an hour) and a Mash Out (~170˚F for 10-30 minutes).

Check out the Wiki article on Decoction Mash on the site (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/ind...oction_mash)to see the various schedules and scenarios that they are better suited for to know which one you need to follow.
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Last edited by dobo; 06-20-2013 at 09:02 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:12 PM   #1668
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Anyone have issues with the bag melting on the bottom of the kettle with flame on? I have noticed my bag sticking to the rim of the kettle, presumably melting a little sure to the heat contact. On my last batch I did a mash out and stirred constantly with the heat on. After transferring to FV, I noticed a build up in one part of the kettle bottom. Could this be melted bag? Fyi - the bag looks fine.

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Old 06-21-2013, 12:02 AM   #1669
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I got bored today, its raining, so I decided to finish putting my Koozy together. The bottom is 2 layers of reflexiv thick and the top is three layers. It fits on pretty tight so I might not need to strap it on to keep it sealed. I had the reflexive laying around from another abandoned project and I bought 1 roll of the metal tape for about $4.

kozyfull.jpg   koozytop.jpg  
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:34 PM   #1670
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I've been doing BIAB for the past seven months or so. For my last few batches I've been crushing my own grain with a corona mill and have noticed that I'm getting extremely cloudy wort (but better efficiency). Now, for the most part and trub settles out in the fermenter, but it forces me to leave behind a significant portion of the wort in the boil kettle. Anyone have any advice on how to get clearer wort, or is that just one of the drawbacks with BIAB (no vorlauf to help filter particulates)?

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