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Old 07-08-2014, 01:38 PM   #11
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The changes needed would be removing water from the mash and sparging the grain to boil volume after pulling the bag. I already have a three vessel system and tried BIAB because of the "simplicity" of the full volume mash and no sparge. Adding complexity to the process such as sparging would require another vessel to heat water in and needlessly complicates things. At that point, go two vessel with recirculation MLT/Kettle system.

I'll still BIAB and teach it for intro to all grain, but, in my opinion, 10G of a 1.040+ OG beer in a 15G pot is pushing the limits of the vessel.
There is really no need to heat the water for sparging. People who have tried both ways have found little difference between sparging with hot water compared to cold. You usually aren't sparging with a large quantity of water when you BIAB and the wet grains are hot enough to warm that amount of water enough to dissolve the sugars.

Wilserbrewer suggests adding hot water to bring your wort to mash out but that too is an unnecessary step as you achieve the same end by pulling the bag and begin to heat the collected wort immediately as you drain the bag and sparge.
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:52 PM   #12
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There is really no need to heat the water for sparging.
I agree, the only advantage of heating the sparge water will be reducing overall time of the brew session. Larger the batch, the more time impact.
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:57 PM   #13
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There is really no need to heat the water for sparging. People who have tried both ways have found little difference between sparging with hot water compared to cold. You usually aren't sparging with a large quantity of water when you BIAB and the wet grains are hot enough to warm that amount of water enough to dissolve the sugars.

Wilserbrewer suggests adding hot water to bring your wort to mash out but that too is an unnecessary step as you achieve the same end by pulling the bag and begin to heat the collected wort immediately as you drain the bag and sparge.
I suspended the bag and heated to mash out, then pulled and squeezed. Still didn't sparge the grain. And I should correct the volume, it was an 11G batch to have 10.5-ish G into fermenters.
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Why not? You now know what to expect and what needs to be changed to make it effective. Go for it!
The change needed to be made to make it effective is swapping the 15G pot for a 20G pot.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:04 PM   #14
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A 10 gallon batch is possible from what I'm getting but a bit extra work (as with anything ha).

If I decided to just do an 8 gal batch, I should be fine and not adding any extra steps correct?

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Old 07-09-2014, 08:04 AM   #15
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My last BIAB batch was a 5 gallon batch of a Wee Heavy in my 15 gal brewpot with 21lbs of grain or so and it barely fit with all the grain and the water. You would need a bigger pot if you are going to regularly do 10 gal batches of high gravity beer.

My penultimate batch was a 10 gal Scottish Pale ale and I was able to fit all that grain and water perfectly fine in the brewpot. It was a little awkward to mix the grain with the water within a half inch of the top of the pot but it all worked out. That was about a 5.5-6% final ABV brew. Don't remember the OG.

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