Wiring Extech PID controllers to Honeywell VR8200a2132 valves

Need a little assistance wiring up an Extech 48VTR PID controller to a Honeywell VR8200a2132. I understand that the 110AC connects to terminal 6 & 7 and my RTD connects to 1, 2 & 3 but I don't understand which terminals to wire the Honeywell valve going through the DC transformer. I don't think I need an SSR and I'm thinking I hookup to terminal 4 & 5 but I'm not entirely sure. Has anyone used these PID's or understand them well enough to help me wire the communication back to the gas valve?

I attached the manual but if that doesn't work you can find it by googling Extech 48vtr.

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

View attachment Extech 48vtr Manual.pdf

jphelli said:

Need a little assistance wiring up an Extech 48VTR PID controller to a Honeywell VR8200a2132. I understand that the 110AC connects to terminal 6 & 7 and my RTD connects to 1, 2 & 3 but I don't understand which terminals to wire the Honeywell valve going through the DC transformer. I don't think I need an SSR and I'm thinking I hookup to terminal 4 & 5 but I'm not entirely sure. Has anyone used these PID's or understand them well enough to help me wire the communication back to the gas valve?

I attached the manual but if that doesn't work you can find it by googling Extech 48vtr.

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

Click to expand...

Pins 8 + 9 are your No relay control terminals for your Honeywell valve.
If your controller calls for heat, the relay closes (8&9) and connects the 24 v to one side of the Honeywell valve.

ClaudiusB said:

Pins 8 + 9 are your No relay control terminals for your Honeywell valve.
If your controller calls for heat, the relay closes (8&9) and connects the 24 v to one side of the Honeywell valve.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the guidance Claudius. When reviewing the manual the terms"pulsed" and "SSR" was throwing me off. Just want to make sure I understand the wiring correctly.

1. Wire the positive from the dc to a switch, then to the TR pin on the honeywell.
2. Wire the negative from the dc directly to the TH pin on the honeywell.

This way when the rtd sense heat is needed the pid will open the gas valve; when it senses no heat is needed the pid tells the honeywell to close.

Do I have this correct?

John

ClaudiusB said:

Pins 8 + 9 are your No relay control terminals for your Honeywell valve.
If your controller calls for heat, the relay closes (8&9) and connects the 24 v to one side of the Honeywell valve.

Click to expand...

Sorry, just realized after switch I need to run tge positive to pid terminal 8 before terminating at the TR pin. Likewise I need to run the negative to pid terminal 9 before terminating at the TH pin, correct?

John

jphelli said:

Sorry, just realized after switch I need to run tge positive to pid terminal 8 before terminating at the TR pin. Likewise I need to run the negative to pid terminal 9 before terminating at the TH pin, correct?

John

Click to expand...

Connect one wire from your 24 VAC transformer (secondary side) directly to Honeywell valve terminal.

Connect the other wire from your 24 VAC transformer (secondary side) to terminal #8 on your controller.
Connect a wire from controller terminal #9 to the Honeywell valve terminal.
No DC voltages are used with the Honeywell standing pilot valve.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

I finally completed all my wiring and plumbing and didn't realize that the model Extech's I have will not read RTD's so I'm purchasing the Auberins SYL-2342. What sort of wiring change do I need to make to get these to work? I imagine I still need the DC transformer but do not need a SSR, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

jphelli said:

I finally completed all my wiring and plumbing and didn't realize that the model Extech's I have will not read RTD's so I'm purchasing the Auberins SYL-2342. What sort of wiring change do I need to make to get these to work? I imagine I still need the DC transformer but do not need a SSR, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

Click to expand...

I don't use those controllers, will look at the manual and reply as soon as possible.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB

jphelli said:

I finally completed all my wiring and plumbing and didn't realize that the model Extech's I have will not read RTD's so I'm purchasing the Auberins SYL-2342. What sort of wiring change do I need to make to get these to work? I imagine I still need the DC transformer but do not need a SSR, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

Click to expand...

Did you purchase the RTD from Auber?
Auber uses DIN type RTDs not NIST (JIS).

Connect 120 VAC to terminals 9 & 10
RTD to terminals 3, 4 & 5
Connect one wire from your 24 VAC transformer (secondary side) directly to Honeywell valve terminal TH or TR.

Connect the other wire from your 24 VAC transformer (secondary side) to terminal #7 on your Auber controller.
Connect a wire from controller terminal #8 to the Honeywell valve terminal TH or TR.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Thanks ClaudiusB, that was nearly the same from the Extech, nice I didn't have to re-wire the whole flipping thing. I now have to set my input and output valve on the honeywell so the burner burns clean and then I should be good to go. Thanks for all your help, I'll post some pictures of the new setup when I'm finished with everything.

Oh, yes I did purchase everything from Auberins, I should have done that from the start instead of buying 2 Extech's from eBay to match the one I already had, would have saved me time and allowed me to brew this last weekend... live and learn.

John

ClaudiusB,

Not sure if you have an answer for this but here goes. I was testing the operation tonight, setting up the pressure and burn quality when the valves stopped working. Now when I kick on the power to the valve it just makes a constant chatter and doesn't open. I checked voltage to the valve and they're getting 24v dc. If The pilot is lit and the valve is in the on position and I kick on power to the valve the burner fires with no issue. Can you make out what is going on withy setup?

John

Figured out the problem, too high of lp pressure to the valves.i got the burners going but they obviously need adjusting as the flame pulsates. Also have a concern that when the pid kicks the burner off there's still a fire in the cast burner housing; I'm using those 10" bayou burners. I'm thinking all these issues are being caused by improper pressure settings at the variable regulator and valves. I think I'm going to have to hire a pro to adjust the settings with a tester.

John

jphelli said:

Figured out the problem, too high of lp pressure to the valves.i got the burners going but they obviously need adjusting as the flame pulsates.

Click to expand...

What regulater are you using?
I use a low pressure fixed regulator without any problems.
First fix the regulator pressure problem.

I think I'm going to have to hire a pro to adjust the settings with a tester.

Click to expand...

Look at the regulator first. A picture and brand would be a good start.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Have a bit of a wiring snafu and need some advice. Need to separate my neutrals so the valves operate independently of each other. Right now three pid's share both the positive and neutral side of the secondary side of the neutral. What's happening is that the controller kicks off the burner correctly until I turn on another pid. Apparently I'm not smart enough to be able to break the neutral side using only 1 wire from the transformer.

If a picture would help let me know.

Thanks,

John

jphelli said:

Have a bit of a wiring snafu and need some advice. Need to separate my neutrals so the valves operate independently of each other. Right now three pid's share both the positive and neutral side of the secondary side of the neutral. What's happening is that the controller kicks off the burner correctly until I turn on another pid. Apparently I'm not smart enough to be able to break the neutral side using only 1 wire from the transformer.

If a picture would help let me know.

Thanks,

John

Click to expand...

PM me a drawing how you wired your setup.
Pics are great too.

Resolved the issue by rewiring the controllers using the positive 24v supply. Now all controllers operate independently of each other.

Also, I purchased a standard non-adjustable regulator from Home Depot and while it worked find it made my time to boil really slow. I think I'll likely go back to the adjustable regulator and have my friend tune the incoming and outgoing pressure. All in all, happy I was finally able to get the wiring and gas system figured out so I get brew 3 - 5 gal batches in Sunday. Thanks for all your assistance.

John

jphelli said:

Resolved the issue by rewiring the controllers using the positive 24v supply. Now all controllers operate independently of each other.

Also, I purchased a standard non-adjustable regulator from Home Depot and while it worked find it made my time to boil really slow. I think I'll likely go back to the adjustable regulator and have my friend tune the incoming and outgoing pressure. All in all, happy I was finally able to get the wiring and gas system figured out so I get brew 3 - 5 gal batches in Sunday. Thanks for all your assistance.

John

Click to expand...

Congratulation!

Hi Guys, not to hijack this thread but hoping someone can tell me couple of things.

A. where do I find the standing pilot burner, I got the 8200 valves with thermocouple but no pilot burner? My gas guy said i should use approved pilot burner from Honeywell?

B. Part of this thread answered this but what pressure is the honeywell 8200 valve rated at, I have adjustable propane regulator. They were converted NG valves to propane, I see in this thread it resulted in low flame, will that be the downside to valve automation?

I know this is really really late and I'm sure you already got your answers but if not just let me know. I really do apologize for missing this, I rarely logon to the board these days.

John