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Silentnoiz · 09-22-2012, 04:08 AM

I've been searching (and searching) HBT and the internet to find the best/easiest/cheapest way to monitor the temperature of my mash wort exiting the MLT and entering the HERMS (I won't be using it to automate anything, yet, just display temp). I'm close to lost with all of the options. I found some DIY cheap (~$10) temp probes, but don't trust myself to get that right.

I am considering this sensor:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products _id=189

and this pretty inexpensive PID:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250984126629

Any reason(s) why this wouldn't work? Or is there a better/cheaper option?

Thanks in advance!

Rbeckett · 09-24-2012, 11:40 PM

The STC 1000 will allow monitoring and can lend itself to automation as needed later on if you choose to add it in. Several of the packages even come with a temp sensor in the box. I pay about 17 bucks for one fully aeembled and ready to mount. Pay close attention to the input volts and what the out put is set up for because there are several variations available on Ebay directly from China and Taiwan.. That should get you going pretty quick and relatively inexpesively too.
Wheelchair Bob

**jasonsbeer** · 09-25-2012, 03:54 AM

Noooooo! Don't get the Rex PID, it will monitor the temp, but they are junk.
Do a search here for them. Many horror stories. They will not drive SSRs, so you'd have to replace it if you want to build an electrical control panel in the future.

If you want an inexpensive PID, you're better off spending another $10 and getting one of the MyPIN PIDs, cheap and they drive SSRs.

Rbeckett · 09-26-2012, 02:33 PM

Jasonsbeer,
How did you determine that a Rex would not drive an SSR,please. I am assembling an automated controller and have several SSR's and a few of the Rex PID's. According to the spec sheets I got with the PID's they are suitable for that task. I hope I haven't wasted a few bucks on the wrong PID's. I read a lot of the stories and most of them were centered on the input voltage issue and other issues unrelated to driving an SSR. School me up a lil bit if you have some time. Thanks!!!
Bob

alien · 09-26-2012, 08:00 PM

I've heard of people using the Rex C100's. They do have low voltage output for SSRs. As with any cheap knock off they have a few drawbacks though. They are not as accurate or as full featured as other PID controllers, and you have to dig around on the internet to find any documentation that's not in Chinese. If you want to know more, do a search on the UK brewing site Jims Beer Kit. There's a couple of threads there about the Rex C100. Considering you can get one for $16.50 shipping included, you can't go too far wrong.

I haven't used either the Rex C100 or the Mypin, but if it was my money I would put down $27 on the Mypin before I put down $17 on the Rex C100. To me, the Aubers look better than either, but they seem a little pricey to me. Personally I have a Watlow 965 series which has better specs even than the Aubers. I was second hand on Ebay for $22. I use it in my smoker controller with a really crappy PT100 which is a bit of a waste really, a cheapo would be fine for that purpose.

Silentnoiz · 09-27-2012, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonsbeer

Noooooo! Don't get the Rex PID, it will monitor the temp, but they are junk.
Do a search here for them. Many horror stories. They will not drive SSRs, so you'd have to replace it if you want to build an electrical control panel in the future.

If you want an inexpensive PID, you're better off spending another $10 and getting one of the MyPIN PIDs, cheap and they drive SSRs.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'm looking at the MyPIN TA4. But there are two models, the SNR and RNR and I can't seem to figure out the difference between the two.

**helibrewer** · 09-27-2012, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silentnoiz

I've been searching (and searching) HBT and the internet to find the best/easiest/cheapest way to monitor the temperature of my mash wort exiting the MLT and entering the HERMS (I won't be using it to automate anything, yet, just display temp). I'm close to lost with all of the options. I found some DIY cheap (~$10) temp probes, but don't trust myself to get that right.

I am considering this sensor:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products _id=189

and this pretty inexpensive PID:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250984126629

Any reason(s) why this wouldn't work? Or is there a better/cheaper option?

Thanks in advance!

Just be sure to settle on the PID you want before purchasing sensors, as a for instance, the STC-1000 comes with it's own sensor which is a water sealed thermistor...you can't use RTD or digital sensors with it.

**jasonsbeer** · 09-27-2012, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rbeckett

Jasonsbeer,
How did you determine that a Rex would not drive an SSR,please. I am assembling an automated controller and have several SSR's and a few of the Rex PID's. According to the spec sheets I got with the PID's they are suitable for that task. I hope I haven't wasted a few bucks on the wrong PID's. I read a lot of the stories and most of them were centered on the input voltage issue and other issues unrelated to driving an SSR. School me up a lil bit if you have some time. Thanks!!!
Bob

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/rex-c100-pid-cheapest-pid-ebay-254480/

I flipped throught the current e-bay listings a few weeks ago - the price caught my eye too. I examined these closely after reading the above post. The listing titles all seem to claim "C/F" and "SSR". Sounds like they only do deg C, no big deal there. But, when I looked closely at the photos on several listings, the wiring diagram indicated mechanical relay only, not SSR. I hope you got the rare ones that actually work with SSR's (marked low voltage?) Looks like quite a few haven't. There have been suggestions these cheap ones are actually counterfeit. My Spidey senses indicate danger of getting shafted.

For sure the PID in the OP cannot drive an SSR, look at the third photo. Ouput indicates relay.

I went with the MyPin TA4 because it was cheap, and indeed does display degrees C or F and will for sure drive an SSR. The manual is written in Chinglish, so I wouldn't normally recommend it as a first PID experience. OP indicated cheap was the primary driver.

**jasonsbeer** · 09-27-2012, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silentnoiz

Thanks for the heads-up. I'm looking at the MyPIN TA4. But there are two models, the SNR and RNR and I can't seem to figure out the difference between the two.

Hmm, don't know for sure, but the one I ordered is below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310373329956&ssPageNam e=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

Edit - looks like SNR is for SSR control.

alien · 10-15-2012, 09:14 PM

Seeing as I recommended the MyPin I hope it is working out well

The specs look adequate. I have seen PIDs with better than 0.3% accuracy but I don't know whether there are real differences in practice. Chinglish is better than no manual at all which I think is par for the Rex's.