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Old 12-12-2013, 10:20 PM   #21
jCOSbrew
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You might be able to simplify your design by using 30-50amp 220vAC power from the panel in your garage. By the time you add the cost of the 3x power cables, 3x contactors, and extra elements it might be comparable to adding the 220v GFCI breaker. Also make sure your existing outlets are all GFCI if you stick w/ 110v.



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Old 12-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #22
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You might be able to simplify your design by using 30-50amp 220vAC power from the panel in your garage. By the time you add the cost of the 3x power cables, 3x contactors, and extra elements it might be comparable to adding the 220v GFCI breaker. Also make sure your existing outlets are all GFCI if you stick w/ 110v.
I think that the OP is in an apartment, and is likely not able to make electrical changes to the property.


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Old 12-31-2013, 05:00 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by RiverCityBrewer View Post
I think that the OP is in an apartment, and is likely not able to make electrical changes to the property.
Exactly


So I've been wiring this thing up a bit. I think once it's finished I might win the award for messiest HBT control panel


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Old 12-31-2013, 08:30 PM   #24
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So I've been wiring this thing up a bit. I think once it's finished I might win the award for messiest HBT control panel
Looks a bit unsafe...
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:53 PM   #25
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Looks a bit unsafe...

+1. And impossible to troubleshoot if it doesn't all work right away. With that kind of messy wiring my bets are on it not being 100% fully functional first time it's powered on.
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:47 PM   #26
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Strangely enough, it's actually fully working! Finished up my wiring and tested it out and everything seems to work just fine. This box is just too small for my design, so after testing it out and working out the kinks I'm going to move to a larger, much cleaner box =)

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+1. And impossible to troubleshoot if it doesn't all work right away. With that kind of messy wiring my bets are on it not being 100% fully functional first time it's powered on.


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