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Old 11-19-2013, 04:05 PM   #11
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:26 AM   #12
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Ok so I changed my setup plan a bit. I replaced the immersion chiller with a plate chiller, and removed the grant bucket and will instead gravity drain the MLT into the BK. If I find a good .1gpm flow switch I may switch it back to 1 tier, but for now we're doing 2 tiers.

Below are my first two attempts at making a schematic for everything.









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Old 11-21-2013, 02:39 PM   #13
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Here's a layout of my current setup. It's somewhat similar to what you are proposing.



Brewery Layout



Main differences
I run the HLT output through a 3 way valve and into the pump that recirculates mash through the RIMS, eliminating the need for a 3rd pump.
Second pump is fed through a 3 way valve from either the MLT or the BK and all output goes through the CFC, either back into the BK, or by moving the output hose, into my fermenter.

The HLT uses 1375 watts to heat only the sparge water. The strike water is heated in the MLT via the RIMS with 2000 watts. The BK has a 5500 watt element. Both the HLT and MLT are Igloo coolers with Bayou Classic 44 qt. kettles set into them. I don't use a float switch to cut off the HLT element, as I shut it down via the BCS-460 when starting the sparge. Final sparge water temperature setting is done with the RIMS, as the water passes through it anyway.

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Old 11-21-2013, 04:07 PM   #14
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Here's a layout of my current setup. It's somewhat similar to what you are proposing.
Thanks for the ideas chuck, that does look pretty similar to mine. In fact, thats almost exactly how I originally planned my brewery. Then I got the idea of trying to use more cheap pumps and less ball valves might be simpler and work out well. If it doesn't, I'm pretty much gonna copy your plans

Question for you: What do you use to stop pumping from the MLT to BK to keep the pump from running dry?
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:33 PM   #15
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Default Stuff I'm Planning to Buy

Here is a non-exhaustive list of the stuff I'm planning on buying

BCS-462
8 Relay Module,Board, for 8051, PIC Project, 12V
DC 12V Electric Mini Water Pump 103 GPH (P-38I)
Stainless Float Valve
1/2" MPT 4" long BCS-460/462 Temperature Sensor
18" Rims Tube Kit
Plate chiller with wingnuts and inline probe assembly
1/2'' SS304 Valve--12V Motorized Valve TFCWX CR02 NPT
Packard C240B Packard Contactor 2 Pole 40 Amps 120 Coil Voltage
Camco 02612/02613 6000W 240V Screw-In Foldback Water Heater Element - Low Watt Density
D2425 SSRs -Used on Ebay
Heatsink - One large 10"x10"one mounted outside enclosure, ebay
NEMA 4/12 enclosure - Ebay

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Old 11-22-2013, 11:27 AM   #16
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Question for you: What do you use to stop pumping from the MLT to BK to keep the pump from running dry?
I generally stop the pump manually when I have reached full calculated volume in the BK. That's just a little before the time that I start loosing prime in the pump. I stop the sparge when I begin to loose prime in the pump from the HLT to the MLT. This ends up with close to a quart that settles out from the spent grain at the end of the sparge.

If I have a good crush I usually get my planned efficiency and end up with final runnings about 1.011 SG. It took a while to adjust the equipment parameters in BeerSmith, but it's consistent now.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:18 PM   #17
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I generally stop the pump manually when I have reached full calculated volume in the BK. That's just a little before the time that I start loosing prime in the pump. I stop the sparge when I begin to loose prime in the pump from the HLT to the MLT. This ends up with close to a quart that settles out from the spent grain at the end of the sparge.

If I have a good crush I usually get my planned efficiency and end up with final runnings about 1.011 SG. It took a while to adjust the equipment parameters in BeerSmith, but it's consistent now.
You know, that's a much better idea. Rather than trying to stop once the mash tun is empty, I should be planning on stopping when the BK has reached the correct volume. I've been hung up on this idea that to get the best efficiency I need to completely drain the mash tun, but I'm realizing that's not necessary. I'll probably get even better consistency that way.
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Old 11-27-2013, 02:16 PM   #18
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You know, that's a much better idea. Rather than trying to stop once the mash tun is empty, I should be planning on stopping when the BK has reached the correct volume. I've been hung up on this idea that to get the best efficiency I need to completely drain the mash tun, but I'm realizing that's not necessary. I'll probably get even better consistency that way.
Usually the amount of sugar left in the mash is not worth worrying about. Leaving a little wort with 1.010SG doesn't make any difference, except for the clean up afterwards.
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:51 PM   #19
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ChuckO, I was looking at your brewery layout and wondered do you do any recirculation/mixing in your HLT to avoid stratification or does just running it through the RIMs keep the temperature precision? Also when filling the BK during sparge does the run off go through the CFC on the way to the to BK? Seems there would be some liquid remaining in the CFC during boil but would then be sterilized during whirlpool so no concerns with infection, is this correct? Is there a actual "tee" below the MT to divert the flow towards each pump and how much liquid would be remaining in this line. One last question, could you please explain a step by step of how you perform your clean up process. This concept looks like a CIP and requires no hose switching...very interesting.

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Old 12-08-2013, 12:32 AM   #20
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ChuckO, I was looking at your brewery layout and wondered do you do any recirculation/mixing in your HLT to avoid stratification or does just running it through the RIMs keep the temperature precision? Also when filling the BK during sparge does the run off go through the CFC on the way to the to BK? Seems there would be some liquid remaining in the CFC during boil but would then be sterilized during whirlpool so no concerns with infection, is this correct? Is there a actual "tee" below the MT to divert the flow towards each pump and how much liquid would be remaining in this line. One last question, could you please explain a step by step of how you perform your clean up process. This concept looks like a CIP and requires no hose switching...very interesting.
After I fill the HLT with my sparge water I put an air pump hose over the sight gage and let a small amount of air bubble up through the water. That seems to do sufficient circulation to keep down temperature stratification. When the sparge water gets pumped through the RIMS it cycles a bit to raise the temperature if necessary.

The output from the MLT goes through the CFC on the way to the Boil Kettle and a little does remain in the CFC. I start the pump again during the last 15 minutes of the boil, so it gets mixed into the boiling wort while the pump and CFC get sanitized. As long as there is no cooling water flowing the CFC output gets up to 205 by the time the boil ends. I seem to leave about 6-8 oz. in the tee and manifold while pumping to the BK, but it is at SG 1.010 or so, so it doesn't matter. The wort staying in the lines after the 3 way valve gets recirculated through the BK, so that volume eventually gets lost when I pump from the BK to the fermenter, about 20 oz.

Yes, there is a tee on the output of the MLT which can direct the flow to either pump. The RIMS pump can draw through a 3 way valve from either the HLT or the MLT. The CFC pump can draw through another 3 way valve from either the MLT or the BK. The output of each pump only goes to one item.

I don't do a CIP on the MLT or BK, rather I take them off the stand and dump them elsewhere. I do take the hoses from the outlets of the HLT, MLT and BK and drape them into a plastic bucket along with the output hoses from the RIMS and CFC. I fill the bucket with water and oxiclean and run both pumps and the RIMS heater. This recirculates 3-4 gallons of water through everything but the kettles. I redirect the 3 way valves a couple of times to make certain that everything has been flushed while this is happening. I then repeat 2-3 times with clear water and drain.

A benefit of my piping is that I can hook up a hose from the RIMS output directly to my water source and back flow to fill the HLT and the MLT through the RIMS pump and then flow through the CFC pump for priming both pumps. By playing with the valves I can also back fill the hose between the manifold and the BK outlet.


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