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Old 03-02-2013, 10:58 PM   #11
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Direct firing temperature adjustments are kind of the worst... You get a crappy temperature gradient, you tend to overshoot or undershoot depending of where is the sensor or how tall your grain bed is, you apply direct high heat to part of the grain bed... plus you want to control gas flow, which might not be harder than controlling a pump or a heating element, but is sure the less secure approach. HERMS and RIMS setups sure look better in pretty much every aspects...

Is there a reason why you would want to direct fire your MLT instead of the other options?



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Old 03-02-2013, 11:40 PM   #12
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I might not be on the same page here. I want to have this be as painless as possible.

I want to use something like a Love controller to control a gas solenoid and fire up my MLT burner when it falls below the desired temperature.
Give me a few days. I'll try to come up with a diagram and wiring plan using the Auber Instruments PID - SYL-2352

Just as a reference, here is a fairly complex one that I drew quite a while ago using the BCS-460 controller:



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Old 03-03-2013, 11:40 AM   #13
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For your E-stop are you grounding the hot leg? Thus relying on the circuit breaker in your house panel to trip?

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Old 03-03-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
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For your E-stop are you grounding the hot leg? Thus relying on the circuit breaker in your house panel to trip?
Read the explanation at the bottom of the diagram.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:38 PM   #15
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I just have never seen an E-stop used in such a manner in my 13 yrs of commercial/industrial HVAC. You are relying on the house to have proper and up to date wiring and main panel. To many variables to make it totally safe.
a better method would be to have a double pole e-stop in order to disconnect power from the line side and the neutral side.

I would have to look threw the NEC book to see if it says anything. OSHA would red tag it.

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Old 03-03-2013, 12:49 PM   #16
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I just have never seen an E-stop used in such a manner in my 13 yrs of commercial/industrial HVAC. You are relying on the house to have proper and up to date wiring and main panel. To many variables to make it totally safe.
a better method would be to have a double pole e-stop in order to disconnect power from the line side and the neutral side.

I would have to look threw the NEC book to see if it says anything. OSHA would red tag it.
Whatever...

I will not discuss it.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
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Whatever...

I will not discuss it.
so be it...
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:30 PM   #18
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P-J. Thanks for the diagram. Looks complicated! But with some research I might be able to pull it off. I'm hoping with the simplicity of my setup it won't be too hard. I too live in Charlotte NC. Are you a member of the Carolina Brewmasters?

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Old 03-03-2013, 01:38 PM   #19
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P-J. Thanks for the diagram. Looks complicated! But with some research I might be able to pull it off. I'm hoping with the simplicity of my setup it won't be too hard. I too live in Charlotte NC. Are you a member of the Carolina Brewmasters?
I was a member some time ago but have not participated for several years.

The drawing I'm messing wth for you now will be fairly easy to follow (I hope).
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowirenut
I just have never seen an E-stop used in such a manner in my 13 yrs of commercial/industrial HVAC. You are relying on the house to have proper and up to date wiring and main panel. To many variables to make it totally safe.
a better method would be to have a double pole e-stop in order to disconnect power from the line side and the neutral side.

I would have to look threw the NEC book to see if it says anything. OSHA would red tag it.
I have seen a similar implementation once on a 10,000w amplifier for a LDS vibration table we had at one of my previous jobs. The EStop would activate a relay that would connect one of the power rails to ground causing a bunch of internal fuses to blow. This is a very similar concept except we are using our GFCI instead of $200 fuses.


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