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Old 03-29-2013, 05:52 PM   #1
waldzinator
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Default Mounting of DS18B20 in Keggle

Hi,

I just started all-grain brewing, but I am a hobbyist who enjoys all things computers and programming. My current setup is two converted kegs for my HLT and Kettle, and a 10 gallon cooler for my MLT. I have some experience with using the Arduino Uno. I have read a lot of good things about the One Wire protocol on the Dallas temp sensors. I can handle the electronics side of things. I have a more practical question. How are you mounting them in your keggles? I see brewinghardware.com sells the sensor with pre-attached thermowells. What's the best way of mounting these in the keggle? It appears they use a compression fitting. What size hole do these fittings take?

I realize this is kinda a broad question. Just trying to get some ideas before I go drilling into a perfectly good keg and realizing I screwed up.

Thanks.

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Old 03-29-2013, 07:28 PM   #2
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1/2" NPT threaded thermowell w/ a 1/2" NPT nut and o-ring. I siliconed the temp sensor directly into the thermowell after wrapping the electrical connections in shrink tubing.

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Old 03-30-2013, 01:11 AM   #3
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Makes sense. I was torn between doing it that way and this . I guess I was kinda leaning towards the compression fitting since they also sell a probe epoxied into a SS tube. However, I guess the end result is the same, and I wouldn't have to piss around with a compression fitting. Thanks!

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Old 03-30-2013, 01:54 AM   #4
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I made my own Tri-Clamp ones (although this is probably not much help to you).
Had the end of some 1/4" .020 tubing TIG'd shut (you can buy them premade), then silver soldered in a triclamp end-cap. Hasen't been cleaned up in the pic yet.

I soldered a DS18B20 onto the end and also added a 1k res and 0.1uF cap for filtering (suggested by the brewtroller guys), it was a pain. Excuse the sloppy soldering, I was getting pretty tired of making them at this point.

I then just inserted the probe with a bit of silicone heatsink compound (response is very good), crimped the tubing on the cable and added some adhesive heatshrink for good measure.

I highly recommend brewershardware.com, I have bought alot of gear from them and the service is outstanding (although they can be slow to respond at time, they seem to be a bit overwhelmed)

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Old 03-30-2013, 02:13 AM   #5
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After I had to replace the second homemade probe I built, I started buying them from Brewers Hardware as well. I love them. I have them in my kettle, hlt, rims, and mlt.

Order a stock length; they were real busy last winter when I placed my last order and couldn't do custom lengths.

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Old 03-31-2013, 02:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanMar View Post
I made my own Tri-Clamp ones (although this is probably not much help to you).
Had the end of some 1/4" .020 tubing TIG'd shut (you can buy them premade), then silver soldered in a triclamp end-cap. Hasen't been cleaned up in the pic yet.

I soldered a DS18B20 onto the end and also added a 1k res and 0.1uF cap for filtering (suggested by the brewtroller guys), it was a pain. Excuse the sloppy soldering, I was getting pretty tired of making them at this point.

I then just inserted the probe with a bit of silicone heatsink compound (response is very good), crimped the tubing on the cable and added some adhesive heatshrink for good measure.

I highly recommend brewershardware.com, I have bought alot of gear from them and the service is outstanding (although they can be slow to respond at time, they seem to be a bit overwhelmed)
Great input everyone. Question, Allan. Were your running in normal or parasitic mode? I've seen varying documentation that in parasitic you can use a pullup res on the board to hold the bus high. In normal mode, I've seen the use of a 4.7k res on the bus. Thanks! Btw, your tired soldering still beats my normal soldering haha!
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:33 PM   #7
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I use a brewtroller, which can do parasitic or normal. I use normal as it is a quicker measurement time. If you've got 3 wires I would use normal, when I've done parasitic with my own hardware you can install a transistor as a switch to provide a stronger pullup (MAXIM has some app notes on suggested ways). You need the 4.7k regardless, but it should be on the controller end.

The 1kohm and 0.1uF I mentioned are to filter the power to the device to provide noise suppression.

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Old 03-31-2013, 03:46 PM   #8
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Ah, gotcha. I thought you meant you were using the 1k in lieu of the 4.7. Thanks. I'm still just piecing together my gear. I initially want to use the ds for passive temp monitoring, but I would eventually like to go all in for full (possibly PID) automation

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Old 03-31-2013, 04:14 PM   #9
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I use cat-5 cable and a phone jack for each sensor. I have four phone jacks on my control box. They are wired to a single pin on my Arduino. I use a 4.7k pull up resistor on that pin. I run the sensors in powered mode because I can take the sensor readings faster and don't have to worry about how heavy the data pin is loaded with parasitic capacitance.

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Old 04-01-2013, 07:50 PM   #10
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PTFE insulated hookup wire is good if you have it, especially for the brew kettle, because it can stand up to 100°C. Cat5 is rated to 60°C so the insulation might suffer from the heat, although doubtless loads of people have used it without any problems.

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