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Old 11-20-2013, 04:24 PM   #1
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Default HP LP setup am I Blind?

I have been searching for the last 3 days for other threads on high pressure propane aetups using pid controlled solenoids and a manual needle valve for the pilot.


I am not a fan of low pressure and will be using my stand for frying fish as well as crawfish broils. Different pots


My question is this other than the solenoids and needle valves what else is needed plumbing wise for the gas side? I will have a master ball shutoff on the junctions and needle valves after the solenoids for fine control.

Is there anything else I'm missing?

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Old 11-25-2013, 12:35 AM   #2
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Using the search function 4 days later I answered my own question

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/gas-...ht-demo-64899/


The reason noone uses automated High Pressure Propane is due to the only safety valves costing $200+ each.

Low pressure valves can be implemented to increase safety and are more cost effective...

I will search for answers for heating times of low pressure systems vs high pressure systems and I believe high pressure systems would heat faster....

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Old 12-10-2013, 01:02 AM   #3
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I am going to continue to document my control panel build in this thread since I could not find the answers I wanted, or needed to hear (encourgement, "your a badass.... high pressure propane spanks low pressure but will cost your left nut to build/// $200/per valve".

So I went low pressure and this is the control panel I am building.

It is a HERMS 3 keggle, 3 pump if I sell plasma to afford the other pumps, with a control panel with 3 pids to control the two burners.

as I am still working on this, and contemplating and may end up working in the oilfield, 16 days gone from home 4 days back.... I may end up brewing a hell of a lot less... but I will be able to afford better equipment LOL


here is what I started with on my control panel I over paid a bit, but it had the din slots cut and I felt lazy so meh oh well....

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Old 12-16-2013, 02:20 AM   #4
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Scratch the third pump that would be for the herms, and I am too poor for that LOL

I do have some pics of the control panel ill see if I can upload

img_0572.jpg   img_0574.jpg   img_0577.jpg   img_0586.jpg   img_0573.jpg  

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Old 12-16-2013, 02:32 AM   #5
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I screwed up on mounting the DIN rail, I should have waited until I had some components to test fit, I hard mounted my 24V transformer but am looking for a din mount for it and will be moving the din rail down, and mounting the third DIN rail in the panel.

I do have the panel wired with non solid core wire at moment just to test everything, but I am still missing a few components including my 120V 8 pin DIN ice cube relay for the DIN block for the safe start interlock. I also am planning on having a few few fuses and then breakers for the pumps circuits.

img_0588.jpg   img_0589.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2013, 04:52 AM   #6
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Looks good. I'm a little behind you so I'll keep watching your progress. Keep it up

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Old 12-16-2013, 05:55 AM   #7
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You don't need to go low pressure and you can do it for under $100 per burner.

I uses these valves from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Electric...item43c32024aa

And the standing pilot assembly from Tejas Smokers. The will be more than happy to send you just the pilot, T and a single needle valve instead of the whole $75 assembly.

Bonus is everything's 120v so no need for a step down transformer.

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Old 12-16-2013, 11:49 AM   #8
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I saw that Luhrks, and I wanted to go that route, however there is no safety for the user on the gas side if the pilot blows out, and the pid opens the valve for more gas.

Thank you Luhrks for proposing that avenue, I already have two 1/2" echotech valves and will most likely only use one and keep the other as a backup for a main before the gas manifold primary shutoff from the control panel. ie. if the E-stop is hit, even the valve before the gas manifold is shut down.

P.S. I already have all the parts for the gas except one 1/2"x1/2"MPT coupler, I have the vr8200 valves (already converted), the pilots and tubing (and acme nuts), thermocouples for valves, yellow flex hose and shut off ball-valves (want to replace with needle valves).


I have yet to decide if I need a pid for my broil, I need more research, but if I do not, I may make it high pressure with a echtech valve and manual control with a pilot as you suggested luhrks.


P.S. all holes in control panel were made with a universal step bit... Like buttah

I also have a greenlee punch on the way, I hope it is the right one, it's confusing as $hit on which to get. THis is what I got http://www.ebay.com/itm/330927217013

both this guy listed says makes a 7/8" hole



FYI How to install pilot tubing in a honeywell valve


https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/95-6714.pdf

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Old 12-19-2013, 01:37 AM   #9
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Got my 120V 8 pin din mount ice cube relay in.... and forgot to order extra NO blocks....


can I not just wire it in without extra NO blocks?

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Old 01-02-2014, 04:34 PM   #10
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Looking good, I built a two burner low pressure LP setup, it works great, just make sure the burners are close enough to the bottom of the kettles or it will take a month of Sundays to heat.

My only issue is my gas valve controller went out after a short amount of use, that cost me $70.00 for a new one. I'm going to build in a manual control that allows me to buy pass the intermittent pilot control, basically a switch that allows me to open and close the gas valve in the event of another controller failure. I've considered placing another PID to monitor temps in other vessels, currently I move the RTD connector from HLT to MLT. Another new feature to my system has been the addition of and off on auto switch, this allows me to fire off my burner without the PID or prevent the PID from firing the burner when I don't want it to.

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