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-   -   honeywell VR8200 no fire (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f235/honeywell-vr8200-no-fire-361643/)

midnightbrewing 10-17-2012 06:06 AM

honeywell VR8200 no fire
Just completing a brutus 10 clone (search 'brutus 10 with nice modifications' here for the model I shamelessly ripped off).

I've got pilot lights on the HLT and MT no problem, but I can't get the honeywell solenoids to fire when given 24 vac. I've taken readings at all the right spots in my build and gotten the right voltage (28vac coming off the 24V transformer I'm using) and things are wired properly.

I'm using this regulator at the tank http://www.tradezz.com/buy_3055290_L...-Regulator.htm sold at home depot under the brinkmann name. seems like everything should work fine, but I get no gas through the regulator at all upon the 24vac call for it.

the regulator is 11" WC which should be no problem... my BG14 burners have been converted to LP (the BK burner, which is just on a 1-30 psi regulator so I have some control works just fine) but I'm totally stumped at this point.

de3isit 11-12-2012 02:55 AM

Do you have voltage across the TH and TR terminals?
Did you convert the gas valves to LP?
Is the pilot lit when you are trying to get the valve to open?

n2fooz 12-04-2012 03:33 AM

I'm having the same problem. Was this ever figured out?
Yes, Yes and Yes to the questions

midnightbrewing 12-04-2012 11:14 PM

yes. My problem was a voltage drop between the switch, LED indicator light and the PID/valve.

I had a DPDT switch, so I just sent one side to the LED indicator and the other side to either the cable tie (for direct fire) or the PID (for auto fire). That did the trick.

edit: incoming voltage to the DPDT goes over both middle terminals for this to work.

Recently, my only problem was a leaking pilot light connector (yikes!)

de3isit 12-06-2012 04:11 AM

If the pilot is lit the the pilot solenoid is energized. Check the voltage at the valve between terminal MV and MV/PV. You should have at least 18V and no more than 30V. If not the valve is bad.

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