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Old 10-24-2012, 01:45 AM   #21
krazydave
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By the way, if you or anyone else wants a higher res version to print or anything, just let me know.

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Old 10-24-2012, 02:20 AM   #22
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Yeah, if you could send a high res pic, that would be great! Do you have a materials list for this? Also, I found a few 120v and 24v lamps that you might like. Here are links:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPINETECH-R...item336d02ce34

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPINETECH-R...item4ab4742fe2

Thanks,
tg

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Old 10-24-2012, 02:18 PM   #23
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Here's a link to a PDF version of the schematic.
http://www.0wnj00.com/picstemp/ForumImages/v2.pdf

I also went with these lamps for a cleaner look. These are the same as you see at http://www.theelectricbrewery.com.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-22mm-COM...item5ad442ea81

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Old 10-25-2012, 03:29 AM   #24
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Crap, I just realized that I left my 24v buzzer on the 120v leg for that Aubers now. Looks like I need to update it yet again!

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Old 10-25-2012, 03:39 AM   #25
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ok, main image has been updated and here's an updated PDF as well.
http://www.0wnj00.com/picstemp/ForumImages/v3.pdf

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Old 11-17-2012, 01:52 PM   #26
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So here's a very early pic of the control panel with all the gadgets in temporarily. It'll be painted first, then I'll get started on the wiring.

image-305830365.jpg  
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:32 PM   #27
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Wow looks nice. I would say definitely invest in lamicoid nameplates, those add a very professional touch.

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Old 11-17-2012, 03:15 PM   #28
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I' been poking around in this topic and I see lots of diagrams that, in common with this one, rely on 'fooling' the GFCI outlet into thinking there is leakage as a means of obtaining an emergency stop function. I see that someone else has voiced the same concerns. What happens if the fuse is missing, dislodged or burned. GFCI's are supposed to be tested monthly to be sure that they work. How many of us do that? This scheme is devilish clever but too klugey (derved from the German word meaning 'clever') for me.

I can suggest 2 ways of doing this and there are obviously others. In both implementations you would have a normally open pushbutton in series with a normally closed pushbutton in series with the coil of a relay the string connected across the 24 VAC control transformer secondary. A normally open pair of the relay's contacts is connected across the normally open push button. If you push that button momentarily the relay coil is energized, the contacts close and thus the relay is 'latched' on and stays on until you push the normally closed pushbutton. This breaks the circuit and the relay is unlatched.

There are now two things you can do with the other contacts on the relay. You can wire a normally closed contact between the high side of the 24 volt circuit and the common wire that goes to the switches in the controller or you can wire a normally open contact in that position. If you do the former (NC contact) the systems behaves as it does now. Nothing happens until you push the NO pushbutton, which would be labeled "Stop" at which time the relay latches on and the control voltage path to the gas solenoids is latched open. Things stay this way until the NC pushbutton (labeled 'Reset') is pushed or the main power is recycled.

This works but is subject to the same criticism. What happens if the relay fails?

With the NO contacts is series with the control contacts the NO pushbutton is labeled 'Start' and must be pushed in order to energize the relay and latch the gas control loop closed. The loop stays closed until the NC pushbutton, now labeled 'Stop' is depressed or the power is recycled.

I prefer this arrangement because failure of the relay effects you at startup - not during an attempted emergency stop. Further more, the extra step of pushing Start to 'turn on the gas' might be a good feature to have. Finally, if you put the NO contacts in series with the common solenoid return lead (or used a separate NO contact for each) you could run the system to see when the controllers are asking for heat (by watching the lamps) without actually producing heat. This might be useful for diagnostics.

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Old 11-18-2012, 12:54 PM   #29
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Right it has been discussed, will the forcing leakage to the GFCI work most of the time yes. But it really shouldn't be called an emergency stop or e-stop. That term in industrial automation has a certain meaning and typical requirements that the leaking the GFCI would never be used to achieve.

In industrial applications an e-stop is normally completely hardwired and made to be as failsafe as possible. Normally that means using something like an undervoltage release in a pocket on the breaker and normally closed switches wired in series to all the e-stops. That way, if a wire breaks or comes loose, or anything happens like that, it will still interrupt the circuit and drop the undervoltage release on the breaker. The control system is never used to implement an e-stop, and I would say the GFCI has circuitry in it that must be functional for the leakage method to work, so it would be part of the control system.

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Old 12-25-2012, 06:50 PM   #30
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Finally a little progress. All painted up and ready to start wiring.

image-3732347164.jpg  
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