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Old 05-14-2012, 07:48 PM   #11
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I would assume efficiency with constant recirc and temp control would improve. Plus with the system being automated, I can truly learn how my system brews, not much room for human error. That way I can adjust my recipes for my system.

The goal is to have a system that I will not want to upgrade in 2 years like I've done with all my previous setups. Also with the hopes of some day moving indoors (still trying to get that one past the wife) it will take up a much smaller footprint.
I had the constant cross-flow sparge as you are showing it which IMHO is the thing driving the lower efficiency. At some point you are sparging with wort instead of water. It seems to max out around 1.050 beers.

Lonnie Mac from this post:

I can't say how many batches I have brewed using this concept on Brutus Ten, and with each, you are exactly right my friend. It is a great fun concept to fool around with but in short, I didn't build the 20 for several reasons... The idea has worked out great for my lower gravity beers, mild's, cream ales, etc...

The real problem is solution. As we know there is a saturation point of any dissolvable solid in water. Our problem of course is sugar in this case. So while there is just the right amount of water to hold ALL the sugar in solution for a light mash, much bigger beers saturate out rather quickly, and no amount of sparging will get the remaining sugars as we are sparging with water that is already saturated beyond retention. This puzzles me that the addition of grain would help this situation that I have experienced as the problem has not been a sugar issue, it remains a sparging issue. I am a BIG cream ale brewer. At first all my trials were based on lighter beers and they worked out great. The system was fun, and a change-up on brew-day was REAL fun. Kinda like playing with new toys!
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:20 PM   #12
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Found this explaining the loss in eff%, I think I'm still good. According to the data I'd have max 70% eff on 1.080, just assuming it to be 60-65% it's still not bad.

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Old 05-16-2012, 10:07 PM   #13
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Interesting. Because I can tell you from my experience I was 20 points lower, low 60's in efficiency with 11-12 lbs grain bill. But that could have been other issues with my setup to be fair. Where did the graph come from?

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Old 05-16-2012, 10:16 PM   #14
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countertop brutus 20 thread

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Old 05-16-2012, 10:40 PM   #15
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This chart is a good reference. I routinely get ~72% efficiency on my Brutus 20 10 gallon system. Don't be scared away by the people saying efficiencies are horrible.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:36 AM   #16
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Ordered remaining supplies from OSCSYS, relay board, and connectors.

Almost everything on order for control panel, waiting till I get the parts so that I can visualize size needed. Going to make as small as possible with the benefit of backplate.

Squeeky

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Old 06-02-2012, 11:29 PM   #17
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Remainder of my Brewtroller parts came in this week. Additional connectors, 3rd temp probe, M12 splitters. Only issue I realized I'll need an M12 extension cable, using splitters at CP will not work

Also got this little gem on ebay. Was listed for $32, offered $6.50 they countered with $8 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110784332509...84.m1427.l2649

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Old 06-02-2012, 11:37 PM   #18
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I need some help deciding on how I want to connect my element. Since there will only be 1, I would like to keep the output small. I currently have dryer outlets on vessels so it would allow for an easy switch. However I've also considered twist locks, or even better PowerCon connectors.

Any input?

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Old 06-04-2012, 04:38 AM   #19
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I use twist locks on all my elements [2 vessel RIMs]. When you sparge I think you'd be better off putting all the water in the MLT and then recirculating it for atleast 15 mins before dumping it into the BK with the 1st runnings [ie: Mash #2]. I think you're efficiency will be pretty low if you don't.

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Old 06-04-2012, 09:21 AM   #20
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Squeeky,
I like it any way you do it. I love the automated valve idea you have which eliminates the hose cganging issue completely. My only issue is where is your drain to allow a prime to be changed from water to wort or wort back to water. Are you planning to use an electric valve on the water inlet from the city supply too? I am planning to use ball valves till I can afford electric valves and seperate my RO system from the well system with a 3 way selector valve in the inlet. Thanks for the drawing and design ideas.
Bob

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