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**Squeeky** · 05-11-2012, 02:37 PM

Some of you may have seen my thread in electric brewing but this forum seems more fitting. After months of debating on the system design I think I finally have it. (Fingers Crossed)

I moved from an electric three vessel HERMS, to what will be a two vessel electric automated HERMS. I wanted to reduce the size of the brewery but continue to be able to do 12 gallon batches or 8 gallon big beers. I plan on using my current keggles but rebuilding them once the design is complete. I will be based off the Brewtroller 3.3, which was picked due to the volume sensors and 1-wire temp sensors. After watching the youtube videos operation of the system doesn't seem to be an issue.

I had been struggling with design setup as each time I made a diagram I would find an issue. I was also not looking to clone a current design out there. I was amazed by rebab25's single pump b20, but after talking with him realized it was more trouble then it was worth. Below is my final valve diagram, if you see anything wrong please point it out. DO NOT be shy, as I plan on diagramming out and only buying the parts I need.

Not shown are a few check valves just to avoid any flow back.

**Squeeky** · 05-12-2012, 09:50 PM

Over 80 views and no comments

Anyone want to just chime in and say that this layout will work. Then I can start gathering parts.

**kladue** · 05-12-2012, 11:20 PM

A minimal valve and pump design would need 5 valves in the wort path, and 2 in the water for auto fill and chill. You can get by with one pump, 2 float switches to alternate sparge and flow to BK for a minimalist control scheme with a Brutus 20 setup. If you use a tube type CFC chiller in series with the HERMS coil then the 2 valves for water control could automate fill and chill without plumbing or hose changes. The CFC could be sterilized by pumping boiling wort to bring it up to temp, then starting cooling water flow.
The configuration would be like the letter "H" on its side, pump and HERMS coil in the middle , and valves in horizontal arms controlling flow to and from the respective kettles. The fifth valve would be tee'd in above the pump to direct wort to the fermenter after cooling.

**Squeeky** · 05-12-2012, 11:34 PM

As much as I appreciate the comment, a picture is worth a thousand words. If I'm understanding you correctly I can eliminate a switch by adding two float valves? I'm going to be using the pressure sensor of brewtroller for volume readings, so I will likely avoid float valves.

Would it be too much to ask you to draw out what your saying? I think for simplistic reasons I will stick with two pumps, but if you have a diagram that spells things out I'd like to see it

**kladue** · 05-12-2012, 11:47 PM

It will have to be monday before I can CAD up the diagram at work, sorry. Level measurement with the bubble tube sensors is a better method than float switches, with the idea of shifting a gallon at a time between kettles during sparge cycle, and finally pumping out the MLT the design approach.

**kladue** · 05-13-2012, 01:34 AM

Here is a quick and dirty sketch in Paint of what I was talking about

**dbrewski** · 05-13-2012, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squeeky

Over 80 views and no comments

Anyone want to just chime in and say that this layout will work. Then I can start gathering parts.

I did a simple brutus 20, no herms, and the efficiency was significantly lower than even a batch sparge system. Not trying to crap in the cornflakes, just suggesting a lo-fi prototype you can brew with before you commit.

**Squeeky** · 05-14-2012, 02:20 PM

I would assume efficiency with constant recirc and temp control would improve. Plus with the system being automated, I can truly learn how my system brews, not much room for human error. That way I can adjust my recipes for my system.

The goal is to have a system that I will not want to upgrade in 2 years like I've done with all my previous setups. Also with the hopes of some day moving indoors (still trying to get that one past the wife) it will take up a much smaller footprint.

**Squeeky** · 05-14-2012, 03:30 PM

I have decided to break up my wiring into two boxes:

240v Box (located on the brewstand):
- Main Power Input
- 2x Dryer Outlets
- 8x 3P MIC connectors
- 8P MIC ( Connects to Relay board in CP - 8 Valve Signals )
- 8P MIC ( Connects to Relay board in CP - Element Trigger, 120v, Neutral, Ground, vDC+, vDC-, 2x Pump trigger)
- 4x 40A SSR + Heatsink (2x used at 30A, can upgrade to 4x when 50A available)

Control Panel:
- Brewtroller
- DC PSU
- 16 port relay board
- DC Airpump / Sensor

Still haven't decided if I want to run temp probes to the 240v or directly to CP.

**Squeeky** · 05-14-2012, 06:21 PM

Updated with fitting overview