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Old 05-23-2012, 10:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by kladue View Post
The furnace valves will only work with low pressure propane or natural gas, spark ignition and dual solenoid valves are the only safe option for high pressure. If you apply more than 1/2 PSI to the furnace valves an internal safety device kicks in and the valve will not open.
So, Kladue, from what you are suggesting here and there with this I could convert my bg-14 burner to low pressure LP and be safe with my setup?


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Old 05-24-2012, 01:15 AM   #12
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If you have the furnace valves, then all you need is a low pressure regulator and a low pressure conversion valve for each burner. The maximum fire you will get is lower than running high pressure, but many others have already gone this route successfully. One of the largest myths with burners is that bigger is better, the opposite is true after 80K btu's under a 16" pot or keg. Venting the fire correctly gives more returns than trying to shroud the burner to tightly and preventing the flow of air from under and then up through the burner to complete combustion.



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Old 05-24-2012, 03:03 PM   #13
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I think there was some early issues with spark ignitors and EMF or something with the BrewTroller. This may have been resolved by now; especially with the changes to I2C for the LCD and such. Just an FYI; something to look into.
I have intermittent pilot low pressure Honeywells; spark ignition on the kettle, hot surface on the HLT.

The spark ignition is a PITA, when it arcs the Brewtroller goes nuts; random characters on the display, 1 wire sensor net shows impossible readings, sometimes the whole board freezes up and requires a power cycle.
Not to mention the need for yet another box to house the valve controller.

I've seen talk of people creating Faraday cages, shielding all their cables and all sorts of craziness that I have yet to try.

The hot surface just works, no drama. Plug 24VAC in and go. I would encourage anyone looking at going this route to save themselves the problems and go hot surface from the beginning, especially if your going to use a controller like Brewtroller or BCS.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:47 PM   #14
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OSCS sell 1-Wire Temperature Sensor with a noise suppression filter, does this filter not help overcome the issues with spark ignition systems?

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Old 05-25-2012, 01:18 AM   #15
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Spark ignition does not play well with the direct connected microprocessor setups, most are not built with any noise filtering at all. Best to place them in a separate metallic enclosure away from the controller to limit the electrical noise problems they will cause with microprocessor driven devices.

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Old 05-25-2012, 04:44 PM   #16
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If you absolutely, positively have to go high pressure propane, is there a safe way to automate it other than the spark ignition? Is that even safe?

Eventually what I want to be able to do is fill my mash tun and set everything up the day before brew day. Then on brew day have the brewtroller fire up the MLT on a timer. Is there a safe way to set this up with high pressure propane?

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Old 06-03-2012, 11:54 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Cuzco_Brew View Post
OSCS sell 1-Wire Temperature Sensor with a noise suppression filter, does this filter not help overcome the issues with spark ignition systems?
Hi

There's always a compromise between noise suppression and speed. You can get one or the other, but not both. The "easy" way to get both is to drop the one wire sensors and run an analog sensor like a thermistor.

(Yes I know that's not a particularly helpful reply ...)

Bob
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:03 AM   #18
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I am about to convert my direct fire RIMS system over to the opentroller DX1.

I currently automate the mash with an eBay valve that is seen earlier in this thread. I also use a standing pilot and auber PID.I have been using that successfully for over a year.

Stage one of the opentroller update will be to add the solenoid and pilot to the HLT and then control both using the brewtroller set up.

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Old 07-30-2012, 07:29 PM   #19
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The Brewtroller / OpenTroller can do both PID and simple on/off for temp control. I was under the impression you should use the on/off mode for a gas setup, but you are saying you can use the PID setting? Is there anything special you need to do to make a gas setup work with PID?

Thanks
Zac

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Old 07-30-2012, 08:45 PM   #20
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I have not really looked into it much yet. I mentioned PID because that is what I am using now to control my temps on the mash. I will be replacing it with the opentroller. I guess it will also just be used to set a max temp, and then it is maintained by turning the solenoid on/off.



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