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Sentinel · 08-12-2012, 04:22 PM

edit** ...... sorry, wrong topic

SMc0724 · 08-13-2012, 05:54 PM

Is this the same pump by another name: http://www.ultimatesolar.com.au/ebay/TS5_SOLAR_04.pdf ? If not, do you happen to know where to find the pump curve for those Topsflo 15PV pumps?

SMc0724 · 08-13-2012, 06:06 PM

Adeering, I have sooo many questions, mostly about symbols on your line diagram. I do not want to dominate or bore this thread, could you please recommend a book to learn this symbology. thanks.

SMc0724 · 08-13-2012, 08:03 PM

The interlock is in bottom left corner, correct? It's interlocked with the pumps, and heaters? It turns the system off when these devices fail, or what?

Why a hard switch between Arduino and Android? Is that a function that is switchable mid-program? Like if you want to roam with Android and monitor/control?

Adeering · 08-13-2012, 09:37 PM

The interlock is a safety relay so that the system cannot turn on unless all the switches are in the off position. This is a safety precaution to ensure that the power to pumps and elements are applied when the total system is turned on.

As for the diagram read theelectricbrewery.com for information What symbols are you curious about?

The hard switch between the android and the arduino on the components is so that there isnt a conflict of control between the two. You can switch the control at anytime throught the brew and wont effect the results. The only effect is that the element/pump will momentarily turn off while switching the switch from one to the other. But will turn right back on since the switches dont actually change anything except where the arduino gets the signal from. The way its set up is the arduino does all the work, the only difference is that when set to android, the android sends the set points for the elements and pumps, instead of the arduino. But the arduino then takes those setpoints and controls the SSRs.

That is the same pump as im using

SMc0724 · 08-13-2012, 10:43 PM

The circle labeled 240V is a lamp, active when pump is on?

The two mirrored rectangles below Mega are two position switches (on/off?) for pumps?

Three positions of heater switches are off/Arduino/android?

Why aren't these switches inline with the 5V SSR circuits?

Those 8 circles that form the interlock make no sense to me. It seems to me that the functioning interlock is similar to an SSR? It's not an SSR?

After some study, I think I get it the diagram now. Now for some wiring questions?

How are the resistors sized?

Why both SSR and coil relay on heaters?

Why are there no feedback controls on this diagram?

Why does the interlock circuit need to go through both sides of these switches?

Adeering · 08-13-2012, 11:31 PM

The two circles are lights that go on when the elements are on. I havent decided if I want to keep them or not.

The two mirrored rectangles below the mega are 3 position switches with 2 NO connectors and 2 NC connectors. The normally closed connectors are for the interlock (the top and bottom part of the rectangle) the 2 NO connectors are for the main switch to talk to the arduino.

Yes, the pumps/elements are three position switches Arduino/OFF/Android they talk to the arduino to let it know whether to look internally or to the android for the information on how to drive the SSR. The arduino works as a PID or can control the level of power to the elements/pumps

The interlock is similar in principle to a SSR but works differently. But basically the current from the interlock circuit has to be able to go all the way through the path to allow the current to contactor to allow the power from the main power

Resistors can really be any size as they are pull-up/down resistors, basically they are their to prevent noise from the switches, if you didnt have them the arduino would register small current and keep switching back and forth

SSRs have a small amount of leakage (about 4V for 120V system from what Ive seen with testing) while the coil relays do not. Also Im using the coil relays as a switch so that only one can be powered at any given time. This prevents me from accidently drawing more than 30A since Im doing a 30A system. If I was doing 50A I could run both, but would still use the coil relays as they prevent leaking current through which is safer.

What feedback controls are you expecting? Ive got the temp probes on their, that is the only one as of now that Im using, Im going to incorporate differential pressure sensors later for volume measurements but that is a future upgrade.

The circuit relay needs to include both positions of the 3 position switch that power goes through. Basically what it does is you create a path that when everything is off is a complete circuit with NC connectors on the switches, that way if a switch is not in the center OFF position the circuit goes to open and the circuit isnt complete.

I would recommend going to TheElectricBrewery.com its very informative and its where I got a lot of my information from.

SMc0724 · 08-13-2012, 11:59 PM

Thanks

Oh I see temp now. It's unreadable in the rasterized image.

I would not say that I was expecting it , but I was looking for these things:
1. Measurement and control of flow in pipe, or pressure or level in pots. How does the pump know when the pot is empty? Or full? And no valve controls. That's all manual?

2. Reverse chilling flow control.

3. Mash stirring.

4. Valve controls to a fermenter.

I'm planning to automate pumping first; looks easier. Once I get that, I'll try my hand at the fill PID. Then a heat PID. :-)

Edit: and what are the three positions of the switches on the pumps, on/off/auto?

Again thank you.

Adeering · 08-17-2012, 12:37 PM

Just a small update, waiting on the 8pin plug-in for the interlock to get here from china. Just ordered a heatsink from heatsinkusa.com. Good prices and can get different sizes cut to length so got one that covers the space needed. Did a little test fit with the parts. Gonna head to Home depot this weekend pic up some paint and need more connectors. Once I paint it, get the heatsink drilled and installed Im going to mount everything and start wiring. Still need to get a hole saw for the 3 plugs and drill those holes. And heres the pic.

all the yellow cables are the for the switches and temp probe hookups. Still need to wire in the SSR outputs but that will be simple 4 wires out the opposite side of the enclosure. Last thing for the enclosure is the joystick needs to be mounted properly.

Heres another shot with the DC power supply

**helibrewer** · 08-19-2012, 02:50 PM

I found this Android-to-Arduino BT shield...looks promising.
http://www.buildcircuit.net/product/android-arduino-shield-2