Who's got tips for a first time tiler?

**cubbies** · 02-19-2008, 04:34 PM

Some of you may remember my thread about flooring in my basement. Well, we decided to go with the ceramic tile. I am going to be putting it directly on the basement floor which is concrete, so I shouldn't need any kind of backer or anything. I know I need to check and make sure it is level, but what if it is not? What are my options?

My bro and some buddies who have tiled before are coming over to help, and I know that it is rather easy to do, but HBT has a wide variety of very skilled people and I know that it never hurts to ask these kinds of questions around here. So, anything I should know?

Klainmeister · 02-19-2008, 04:36 PM

Start in the middle.

**bradsul** · 02-19-2008, 04:50 PM

Your thinset (or whatever you choose to use) most likely won't be able to stick to the concrete as it most likely has a smooth (troweled) finish. Plus if your floor gets at all cold that will be directly relayed through the tiles and will be unbearable. Lay down at least a 3/4" (tongue and groove) plywood sub-floor, this will also allow you to level the floor if you need to.

The tile floor shouldn't be directly tied to the concrete because as the concrete cracks (and it will) it will break the tiles as well. A sub-floor product specifically for tiling (ditra is great) is also recommended.

**cubbies** · 02-19-2008, 05:22 PM

Hmm...hard to argue with that logic. How would I attach a subfloor to concrete though?

Soulive · 02-19-2008, 05:28 PM

I know its obvious, but don't skip the dry run. I have tiled 3 times now and they've all looked so good because I always to the dry run. Its easier to find layout issues when things aren't permanent...

**cubbies** · 02-19-2008, 05:34 PM

Yeah, I definitely intend to do that. What I was going to do is get that snap marker or whatever it is called and mark the center going in each direction (the area I am doing is more or less rectangular so no overly weird cuts. Then go to each wall in each direction.

This whole sub floor thing is throwing me a curve now though, I am not sure what to do about that.

**bradsul** · 02-19-2008, 05:38 PM

The plywood sub-floor just floats and the ditra gets thinset to the plywood. The idea is to isolate the tiles from the underlying structure so that when it moves, the tiles don't break.

Soulive · 02-19-2008, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradsul

The plywood sub-floor just floats and the ditra gets thinset to the plywood. The idea is to isolate the tiles from the underlying structure so that when it moves, the tiles don't break.

Brad, wouldn't he want some kind of vapor barrier as well? I've never done basement tiling so I'm not sure...

**bradsul** · 02-19-2008, 05:44 PM

If he has any water issues it's certainly a good idea. A waterproof membrame is the best bet but will add some costs as they aren't that cheap.

If you want to really do it right you would put down a layer of 2" extruded insulation (the same stuff used to make the son of fermentation chiller) with sealant on all the joints (including tuck tape). 3/4" T&G plywood on top of that, then the ditra and then your tiles. That will give you a floor with a complete temperature and water break between your feet and the concrete.

zoebisch01 · 02-19-2008, 05:46 PM

Yeah definitely put down a skin of some sort on top of the concrete is a good idea.
Like bradsul mentions, something like Ditra. Although I'd be concerned about plywood warp if you have the chance of water infiltration.

When you apply your grout, make sure the consistency is thin enough to fully infill your gap, you want it thick but not so dry that it isn't fluid enough. Otherwise you'll develop voids later on. And make sure you force it in well with your Grout Float. And make sure that once it is ready to be wiped that you get it ALL. You want the grout level to be slighlty below that of the tile but not too deep. This is especially apparent with textured tile.