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Old 11-12-2010, 11:59 AM   #11
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I had to sink 1600 in repairs over the last 3 month in our two old beaters. It sucks but if they keep on trucking then its worth the gamble over buying new.

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Old 11-12-2010, 02:15 PM   #12
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Sounds like the '79 Class C RV I had, Dodge 440 engine in a 400 chassis. I NEVER managed to go more than two days without a breakdown. Had three tow-in electrical problems in one day.

Finally junked it.

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Old 11-12-2010, 02:20 PM   #13
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Ford Ranger - those things probably leave the line with an extra EGR DFPE ready to swap in. Wife drives a 98 Subaru Impreaza Outback Sport. One thing that has helped is manuals from http://www.eautorepair.net. Once I got that for the subaru I found the wire problem in about 10 mins. Before that I was a bit stuck. Need to get it for my truck too.

TomRep-sounds like you need to open your own shop!

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Old 11-12-2010, 02:44 PM   #14
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If I had the cash, I might consider it. Been working on them for almost 12 years at this joint. I do all electrical work that comes through the door. Fords are easy to repair once I get the code thats in it. They all have the same problems. I hate Ford's but they do give me a paycheck every week!
Tom

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Old 11-12-2010, 02:45 PM   #15
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living the dream: paid off house and cars, no debt , just pay utilities , or go solar and have the electric company PAY you.

ahhhh one day I hope to be there living the dream.

-=Jason=-

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Old 11-13-2010, 12:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homercidal View Post
Are you sure it's not WHERE you're driving it that causes the problem??

My 99 Cherokee has been pretty solid so far. My friend's 96 has over 300,000 on it and it's still going (but looking pretty tired). He gave it to his parents a couple of years ago when it reached 300,000.
Only thing you need to watch out for with the jeep 4.0s is the head cracking.
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:42 PM   #17
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Spent last night replacing the oil pressure switch. It wasn't showning pressure while cold. Not too hard once I found where it was. I was thrown off because my truck has a pressure "gauge". Turns out it is a glorified dummy light (i.e. on or off). I kept trying to find a sensor on the drawings, not just a switch. Seems like a stupid design.

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Old 11-16-2010, 04:55 PM   #18
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Only thing you need to watch out for with the jeep 4.0s is the head cracking.
Head, or valve cover? I used to work in the factory where they made the plastic valve covers. It was much too easy to torque the bolts too tight and crack the cover.

I haven't heard of the heads cracking.

And he said his folks' Cherokee had 370,000 miles on it now.
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Old 11-16-2010, 07:00 PM   #19
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My 98 S10 4 cyl had that freaking EGR get gunked up every month or so. I hated that EGR.

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Old 11-16-2010, 07:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDWHAHB View Post
Wife drives a 98 Subaru Impreaza Outback Sport. One thing that has helped is manuals from http://www.eautorepair.net. Once I got that for the subaru I found the wire problem in about 10 mins. Before that I was a bit stuck. Need to get it for my truck too.

TomRep-sounds like you need to open your own shop!
I've got a 99 IOS that I replaced the engine on 2 years ago. We got rear ended early this year and the problems have been popping up ever since it came back from the body shop. My gas tank intake pipe is held together with duct tape right now, I've got some burning rubber smells coming from the back end, a mysterious rattle from the engine compartment when above 45mph, but it has nothing to do with the RPM (thinking it's wind related), and the wife reported smelling gas when she started it today, so I've probably got another exhaust leak near the engine.

I'm currently considering doing a few quick patch repairs and then selling it and going back to the monthly payments on something that doesn't cost me 1-2 weekends a month (worse than the army reserves!)...
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