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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Community > General Chit Chat > What is the justification for the higher price at dealer parts counters?
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:52 PM   #11
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my mass air sensor went bad on my mazda i just got a part from the junk yard & it worked fine.

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Old 02-09-2009, 06:21 PM   #12
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the biggest issue in the do it yourself area is having the tools. i wouldn't do a lot of work on my cars because i don't have the necessary stuff. of course i now have friends that do have that stuff so my truck only goes to the shop for things like exhaust that need to be welded, and alignments. man i would love to have a lift for the next time i lower a vehicle.

as far as prices go, its the dealer, lots of people only trust the dealers to do the work right so they can charge what they want. the trick is to find a good mechanic that works for him self if you cant do it on your own.

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Old 02-09-2009, 06:39 PM   #13
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Parts guys have always been commisioned based at dealerships, well, for as long as I can remember.

The parts are resold a few times before a dealer gets them so they are higher. Not only that but the maunfacturers require dealers to carry a huge amount of parts inventory and not at a discount.

Yeah, some dealers probably do charge a higher price than most auto parts places but as you pointed out in the OP you were doing the work yourself. If you were not you would have to pay the higher price for the dealer to work on it.

kudos to you for being able to do your own auto work. the most I can do is change an alternator.

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Old 02-10-2009, 08:38 PM   #14
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Default Mass air flow

Most of the time a bad MAF sensor is just dirty and can be cleaned.

MAF sensor from Toyota- $285.00

Can of sensor kleen- $5.00

It was 10 min. to remove sensor, spray with cleaner and reinstall.

Just make sure to use a sensor safe cleaner.

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Old 02-12-2009, 03:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwiebe View Post
Most of the time a bad MAF sensor is just dirty and can be cleaned.

MAF sensor from Toyota- $285.00

Can of sensor kleen- $5.00

It was 10 min. to remove sensor, spray with cleaner and reinstall.

Just make sure to use a sensor safe cleaner.
I was going to suggest a cleaner. There really isn't that much to them.

My wife loves that I am confident with our vehicles. Oops, the gear selector cable broke? $5 for one that I pulled out at the junk yard. Hard to find because the guys generally just cut the cable when they pull the transmission, but I did find a slightly shorter cable that only required a bit of rerouting to get to work.

Same with window regulator on the Jeep and Durango. Not hard to do, just go to the junk yard and get one!

With 180,000 our Durango is looking to get a new steering rack and possibly a pump as well. For now the stop leak stuff is working, but I've had to add it twice. No leaks, just hard spots and stiff steering for the first spin of the wheel.

I think it's fun to fix cars!
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:48 PM   #16
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Well, the sensor seem to only code when the humidity is high. Once the air dries out then it clears itself.

My auto-tech buddy brought over a snap on code reader that can report real time values from teh sensors. The sensor is working the computer just doesn;t like what it's talking about sometimes.

Got some MAF cleaner and will use it this evening. Will also re-charge my K&N air cleaner and check that the MAF connectors are clean and tight.

I don't mind working on cars actually it's just been a very long time since I have had to.

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