Yup. Got that from the readings on-line. Thanks for the tip tho'.
What about this "sterile rooting media"? Is that REALLY needed or can plain-ole potting soil suffice?
My plans are this;
-Take the cutting as suggested. And prepare with hormone (I will look for the Dragon Rootone).
- Root the cuttings in the coffee cans (plastic with holes drilled in the bottom)
- Bag the bottom watered pots with the clear plastic sacks
- Set the sacked pots outside in a protected, filtered light location.
- Open the bags every day to mist and "change the air".
- Test for rooting by "gently tugging" after 3 weeks.
- If rooted, contiue as before for another week and then remove the bags leaving the rooted cutting for another 2 weeks.
- Transplant the survivors to a larger pot
- Plant the cuttings in the ground late summer to allow them to root the new plot through fall.
Sound about right?
yeah that will definitely work, if anything that will be overkill
if you keep them moist and in the shade out of direct sun you can't really miss - when you put that Dragon Rootone on them they'll shoot out roots right away almost overnight
the only thing I might change is not to use a coffee can, instead use a peat cup so you can see when the roots start poking through - but a coffee can will do
the only thing I might change is not to use a coffee can, instead use a peat cup so you can see when the roots start poking through - but a coffee can will do
Noted. The cans were free and I have sacks of soil already. All I need is the rooting hormone. I could however cut the cans down into more of a "pan" thus needing less soil to root in yet, still leaving enough of the wall to allow for a covering.
I get the cans from work and plan to use them as in ground barriers / protectors for some other plants. For example, the shadey spot where our clematis is I plan to move the clematis and plant "Lilly of the Valley". I'll cut the bottoms off the cans and bury them, then plant the Lily's. That way, I can keep the rhisomes in check and they won't be as invasive for a long while.
I also picked up a tip doin the same thing for clematis. leaving the lip of the can above soil level and composting to that to prevent root rot.
I plan to arrange 2 clematis vines and 1 dutchman pipe along 5 rows of wires on my shed wall. all will be visible from the kitchen and should make my wife very happy to see them from tehre when she looks out at teh boys playing in teh yard.
I am also going to plant some Bleeding Hearts in a front yard shade garden and plan to use the cans to keep them in check too.
For example, the shadey spot where our clematis is I plan to move the clematis and plant "Lilly of the Valley". I'll cut the bottoms off the cans and bury them, then plant the Lily's. That way, I can keep the rhisomes in check and they won't be as invasive for a long while.
Thats a good idea. I've seen people plant them with cans like that before, but I never realized that the can was to keep the plant contained.
I recently discovered that the huge vine growing up through the tree next door is a American Wisteria (frutensca). I asked my neighbor about it and he didn't have a clue what it was nor that it was slowly devouring the tree.
I have, sneakily, been lopping heavy vine that I can reach in order to save the host tree but my neighbor had me back there and I can see nearly half a dozen places where this vine is coming up so, unless he gets to whacking it may be a lost cause.
My wife has always wanted a wisteria so I though I'd get several cuttings to propagate. I have asked the neighbor and he has given me permission. So, I plan to take them this weekend.
Additionally, another neighbor has an unknown clematis that my wife always comments on. I also have their permission to get a cutting.
I have read online resources extensively on general and specific practices of stem cutting propagation and I will get myself some rooting hormone before I start. I also have some plastic coffe cans for pots and clear plastic bags for the mini-greenhouse effect. But, I have some questions for anyone who does this.
Are the gel type rooting compounds preffered?
Anyone use the willow tree homemade compound succsessfully?
Where do you get your cuttings usually (steal from nursuries, public gardens, friends, etc....)?
What is your succes rate and, how many cuttings do you usually try to root to achieve the desired final number?
Cheers and Thanks.
I use Hormex & it works well, worth every penny; just follow the directions. Hormex.net: News Regards, GF.
Roses work really well too. I did roses once, and I just dipped the cuttings in the Rootone F and just wrapped the cutting in a moist paper towel till the roots came out.
why not just dig up the spots its grow up in the grass?
thoes are remade cuttings.
Huh? Is that even english?
Apparently, Wisteria has less of an issue with beng propogated from a cutting than it does being transplanted. The root system for Wisteria appears to be a very deep system in general and the plant does not take well to having it's feet cut. The expense here is massive vining and no flowers and trust me, the vine ain't pretty.
Also, sometimes older vines are grafted to a newer root system to make transplanting easier without a sacrifice to bloom time (seedlings can take up to 10 years to bloom) and should a cutting be taken too low on the plant it may be coming from the grafted root section. Therefore, the plant may have a different bloom, take an exhorbatent time to mature to blooming, or be a disease suceptible vine (not really understanding how the graft blocks this but, that what I have read). So, unless you know for a fact that the plant was not grafted at purchase then you are best to stay away from shootlets on a vine you have not seen blooming.
That said, I intend to mark the vines I take the cuttings from so that next Spring I can look to see that the vine does in fact bloom. After seeing so many back there now, I can't be sure which one it was that I cut the blooming vine from. That bit of his yard is on a "shelf" that he lets go so, it's pretty overgrown and messy and I can't find a vine stub to indicate the bit that was left below the cut.
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Originally Posted by shecky
I'm too old for this ****.
Last edited by GilaMinumBeer; 06-25-2009 at 06:35 AM.
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