Bratwursts and Shillelaghs II

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Okay, let's talk STAINING.

I'm going to be staining that piece of 2x8 on top of the knee wall I built this weekend. It is pine. I'm going back and forth on what I want to do. I was going to stain it the color of the bar, but I am wavering on that because I'm not positive I'm going to be able to match the color well enough.

My other idea is to paint it black like the steps on the bar, and then polyurethane it to make it glossy. I'm not as high on this idea because black is so--permanent.

So--if i go with stain, do you guys have any tips/tricks on HOW to stain. I've never done it.
 
Definately get some wood conditioner (it's sold right with the stains). It's basically a real milky-white wash that you put on before staining. It lets the stain absorb much more consistently.

You also may want to stain a piece of scrap ahead of time, just to see how well it comes out.
 
2 points of advice:

Stain it first, if you do not like the way it comes out, you can always paint it later. The reverse is not (easily) true.

When you stain, go with the grain of the wood. Lightly sand in between coats and be sure to add one more layer of poly than you are currently planning. Pine is super soft.
 
I learned some staining tips from the guy that did my custom kitchen cabinets. If that's your choice, I'll describe but gotta fly right now
 
Anyways, the cabinet maker dude showed me how to use fine steel wool (I forget, 900 / 1200? Finest sold) to stain wood. Use it just like a rag and rub it in. Nice part about it is you adjust how the stain sets into the wood while applying. No seperate sanding procedure if you went too darkor you have streaking. It also really helps to bring out the grain pattern better. No need for any prep chemical to open the wood pores either. You can keep a separate rag to wipeif it went too dark, but if you keep rubbing with the steel wool it'll lighten up & blend as you move forward so it sholdn't be necessary.

Practice on a larger size piece of pine Dude. Also don't fear the stain and use it adequately. Start on one end and start rubbing it in covering the width of the board while stroking with the grain moving forward. You want to blend nicely so have it lighter as you push forward before you get more stain on the wool. Make sense? Personally, I'd stain to match the bar instead of black... Oh, rubber gloves unless you like that look :eek:.
 
the_bird said:
Definately get some wood conditioner (it's sold right with the stains). It's basically a real milky-white wash that you put on before staining. It lets the stain absorb much more consistently.

You also may want to stain a piece of scrap ahead of time, just to see how well it comes out.

2nd that opinion. For pine - it's an absolute necessity. Pine doesn't take stain evenly. The wood conditioner will solve that and you'll have a MUCH nicer finish.
 
The easy way to stain is to simply dab an old T shirt or undees in the stain and rub it liberally on the wood, then take a paper towel or such and act like you are rubbing off the stain, of course you are not but the idea is to take the excess off so that you end up with an even finish.

I have never heard of the Steel wool trick with stain, i have used that to to rub on the wood after i have sealed it with polyuretahne, put a bit of wax on the S.Wool and rub that all over the sealed wood and you will end up with a nice smooth good looking counter top.
 
You'll have to decide if you want an opaque finish, or something more transparent. The only staining I have done, I've gone opaque. It's not really all that much different than using a really thin, absorbing paint. Some of the grain comes through, but it's mostly about the color. You'll see the difference at the store, Depot has out samples that show the finish both ways. Pine isn't an especially fancy wood, so keep that in mind.

I've just used a paintbrush and been fine (but I use the conditioner). I know you can use an old t-shirt as well, I've just never done that. You can also buy bags of rags for next to nothing at Depot.

Avoid the all-in-one polystains. I've had good success using polycrylic finishes, IIRC polyurethane has a tendancy to yellow as it ages. You'll have to decide, too, what kind of finish you want for the poly. Gloss is a PITA to work with (the glossier the finish, the more any flaws will show). I'll usually use either semigloss or satin.
 
Reverend JC said:
I have never heard of the Steel wool trick with stain...

Try it sometime, you're really just using it like the old shirt/rag. Totally sold when I took his advise & I've redone a dining room table, chairs, dressers etc. The wood's gotta be real smooth of course else you'll nab woolie frags. You don't get near as much dark spots as you can rub it out when you 1st hit the wood and it pulls the grain out nicely.

And yes, do avoid the all-in-one crap.
 
Steel wool also is a surprisingly good sponge and will do a fair job at holding stain as you use it. Also, that fine wool combined with the liquid of the stain's effect on the grain allows for a really rich finish.

The other question is what are you going to use as a final sealer on top of the stain.
 
Almost done! :rockin: I've got some painting and some trim to put on this weekend, and it will pretty much be done a week early!

636-barrails.jpg


636-barrails2.jpg



I think someone/something sneezed on my camera.
 
That is sweet Dude. I'm sorry I'm going to miss the inaugural opening of Bratwursts and Shillelaghs.

Cheers, Hope you all have fun. :mug:
 
Beer is flowing!!!!
All the taps are hooked up and flowing smoothly. Tomorrow (if I ever go to bed) I'll finish the paint and the trim and mount the Irish coffin. Then the search for bar stools begins. Oh GAWD.
 
what's with all the spots? did you drop the camera in your beer before taking the pic?

Bar looks great
 
Finally DUN!

:rockin:

636-bar.jpg


I've got to hang more memorabilia, move the dart board, and rip the tags off of the bar stools. Otherwise, it is ready for action!

BTW...anyone know the BEST way to hang the dart board in a brick wall? Do I need some kind of special anchor like those used for concrete?
 
The bar looks amazing and I actually dreamed that I was there, Truly! Maybe I'm spending too much time on this sight that it is invading my dreams. I was hanging out at the bar and had a great time! Unfortunately, it will not come to fruition in real life:( Have a great time, the bar looks awesome!
 
Brewtopia said:
The bar looks amazing and I actually dreamed that I was there, Truly! Maybe I'm spending too much time on this sight that it is invading my dreams. I was hanging out at the bar and had a great time! Unfortunately, it will not come to fruition in real life:( Have a great time, the bar looks awesome!

Thanks! That is awesome!

Never say never, bro.....
 
WOW.... that's amazing.

Maybe one day you'd do me the honour of serving me a pint.
Now I have a dream,........ I come visit and you've done a batch of the Goblin and I watch the superbowl with ya.

That is a dream.:mug:
 
orfy said:
WOW.... that's amazing.

Maybe one day you'd do me the honour of serving me a pint.
Now I have a dream,........ I come visit and you've done a batch of the Goblin and I watch the superbowl with ya.

That is a dream.:mug:

Orfy, ANY TIME! I'd be honored. And of course, Goblin on tap!


Thought I'd post an update--took a recent pic and thought I'd share. I am acquiring "bar junk" slowly but surely. Check out the new sign above the Sierra Nevada Light. Got it at the World Beer Fest for 2 dollars.

Yuri, look around the TV, notice anything cool? ;)


Dsc04049.jpg
 
Ok, I must bring back this old thread!

I am about to be building a cold box but my biggest problem is the doors. How did you do your? Pictures would be great too if you didn't mind.
 
Is that the famous "Bobby Orr flying-through-the-air-after-winning-the-Stanley-Cup" photo hanging up? I have one of those, now I just need a bar to hang it in. Excellent build Dude:mug:
 
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