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Old 11-03-2012, 03:46 PM   #51
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Hey Voltin, awesome build. I am going to replicate your build as I slowly acquire peices to do a full 3V build similar to Kals. Last night I purchased a fiberglass enclosure a little bigger then yours off ebay for $10! Well it seems it was to good to be true as the enclosure did not include a sub-panel. Question, as the box is fiberglass is it insulated enough that I do not need to ground the ground bus to metal? Can I just ground all my components to the ground bus that is just screwed onto the fiberglass? I saw your build and you have it grounded to the sanded away metal sub-plate. Please let me know if you don't understand my question.
Nice find on the enclosure! Most enclosures do not come with sub-panels unless it is explicitly specified, so that is to be expected. Grounding all the components to the bus bar would be fine. The major advantage to the a sub-panel is that you can mount all of your parts to something other than the case itself. So you don't have to poke any holes in the back of the enclosure, keeping it as water resistant as possible. It also makes it easy to assemble the control box, because you can work on the sub-panel and then drop it into the case and screw down. I think a sub-panel is a good investment.
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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:58 AM   #52
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Thanks for the tip. Where can I look for a customizable sub-panel? HD or Lowes? I'm not sure there is one out there already that fit's my specifications.

If anyone else is interested in the same enclosure, here is the link. The guy was nice and very fast to ship. I ordered Thursday and will have it on my door tonight.

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Old 11-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #53
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They sell pre-made back panels for the enclosures. According to the manufacturer's website, you enclosure uses a BP1412 back panel. I didn't see any on eBay, but you could try Googling for it. You could of course make one your self. They have the dimensions for it in the enclosure data sheet (http://www.stahlin.com/web_size_img/...ccessories.pdf, see pages 6 and 7.)

You will have to drill into the back panel to mount all of your accessories. They come as a solid metal plate, so you just layout your components mark them, and go to town.

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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:04 PM   #54
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I noticed there were different materials used for backplates; AL, Fiberglass, SS, and Carbon Steel. Does it matter what kind?

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Old 11-05-2012, 11:21 PM   #55
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Mine is stainless steel. I would recommend either stainless steel or aluminum, as those will be easiest to work with.

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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:41 PM   #56
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Voltin,
I am making a build very similar to yours and had a quick question. I have an 82 qt and 44qt kettle which I plan to run both off the same control box, would it be possible to do the same with a 2.5 gallon batch size kettle, of course with a smaller element? Or will all the components of the control box be way to over powering for the smaller element? If it is fine, what size element would you recommend? I want to be able to brew more ofter and try test batches out before commiting to a 5 or 10 gallon batch.

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Old 12-01-2012, 10:51 PM   #57
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The element will only pull as much current as it needs. You don't really have to worry about pulling too little current, just too much. I have to turn down my 5500W element to about 60% when boiling about 6.5 gallons. For a 3-4 gallon boil (for a batch size of 2.5) you could probably get away with a 2500W or similar sized element, if you can find one. You might be able to use a 4500W element, you will just have to make sure the duty cycle is turned down during boiled.

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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:32 PM   #58
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I have to turn down my 5500W element to about 60% when boiling about 6.5 gallons.
Umm...this doesn't reduce the draw. It draws 100% power 60% of the time... I'm just saying.
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:22 PM   #59
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Umm...this doesn't reduce the draw. It draws 100% power 60% of the time... I'm just saying.
Right, sorry I didn't make that clear. I meant that since I have to turn my 5500W element down to 60% duty cycle to maintain a boil, you can probably get away with a smaller element for 2.5G batches.
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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:49 PM   #60
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Would this element work? I am looking to run this on the same control panel I am parting together, which is a replica of yours.

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