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Old 05-02-2013, 01:31 AM   #121
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Thanks. I had a problem when I was trying to auto tune. It sat at 204 degrees for over an hour, not sure what caused it. I turned everything off and will try again later. Just to confirm, you set your A-M setting set to 2, correct? I know Kal has different settings for different kettles, but with us all 3 are combined.

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Old 05-02-2013, 01:46 AM   #122
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Use Kal's instructions for his HLT, as that is what controls his mash process. When you boil, you will use manual mode and the autotune is irrelevant.

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Old 05-02-2013, 11:41 AM   #123
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jeff - thats what I figured. SoI followed Kal's instructions, but what I am wondering is since the HLT isn't A-M mode isn't needed for the HLT I think that's what may have given my PID a hiccup. It had A-M mode set to 0, but I was in Auto mode. Maybe I should set it back to 0, auto-tune, then set it back to A-M mode 2.

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Old 05-02-2013, 01:55 PM   #124
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Set A-M to 0, since you want to be able to use both automatic and manual mode. You should never have to change it. Then run autotune. Kal recommends a setpoint of around 154 and starting autotune around 10 degrees below that. If that doesn't work, there is a problem somewhere.

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Old 05-02-2013, 02:03 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeh View Post
Set A-M to 0, since you want to be able to use both automatic and manual mode. You should never have to change it. Then run autotune. Kal recommends a setpoint of around 154 and starting autotune around 10 degrees below that. If that doesn't work, there is a problem somewhere.
as a comment, i had set mine to 0 then autotuned. when done, i had to flip it back to 0. maybe i'm just special (my mommy said i was).
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:10 PM   #126
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There is a problem somewhere then, as I followed those exact instructions. I will have to put a screen shot of my PID wiring up later to get some insight.

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Old 05-02-2013, 04:01 PM   #127
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Chris, I see you have this conversation going in another thread, and Kal has been helping you. I'm happy to help, but I suggest that you confine it to one thread. Please follow Kal's instructions and post your results there, as that is the original thread you started on this. Thanks.

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Old 05-21-2013, 11:12 PM   #128
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I am looking at switching to BIAB and am super intrigued by the idea of going electric. I've been doing all grain brews for about 4 years now and really like the idea of a simpler approach. I have 2 young kids and a 6 hr brew day is a major damper for the wife and kids. I love the idea of getting away from propane and the plastic in a cooler MLT. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm assuming that a BIAB session should be about 3-4 hrs long at most? Are you finding this to be true? It looks like efficiency isn't an issue, that's for sure. So, less equipment needed (less to store in garage!), safer due to electric, less to clean up, and shorter brew time. That all seems compelling enough to me to switch to BIAB!

Now I just have to get an electric setup. I've looked quite a bit at the High Gravity eBIAB setup and it is very intriguing. From what I can gather, though, I can build that exact setup for quite a bit less cost. Can anyone substantiate this? I have a 15 gallon pot and a 15.5 gal keggle, a March pump, and a plate chiller so all I really need is the control panel and converting one of my pots to electric. The problem is I know absolutely nothing about electricity. I do have friends that know this stuff though so I'm planning on leaning on them for this project. I still plan on doing this in my garage because I have our breaker panel for our whole house out in the garage right next to where I usually brew anyway so I thought it would be simple to branch off a 240v outlet right there. Is this an accurate assumption? Done by an electrician, of course! I do really like the analog dial control of the heating element on the High Gravity setup as it makes sense to me to be able to just dial in exactly what you need. Anyone have electrical plans on that High Gravity panel? How much do you think it would cost for the control panel build and elements,etc?

Thanks!

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Old 05-22-2013, 01:19 AM   #129
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I tried building a copy of the High Gravity control panel, just the basic one. It cost me a little over $125 in supplies. The element, connections and cord ran around another $80. Unfortunately, I also spent several hours researching plans online as well as several more ordering and buying all the needed parts. After an electrician friend of mine hooked up the 240 line for me I realized that I either wired the controller wrong, or shorted out the SSR due to mixing up two wires on the heating element. He checked out my controller and confirmed that everything was hooked up correctly. In the end, I spent the $250 on their controller. It works great! 64 degrees F. to 160 in 20 minutes, then another 25 minutes to a rolling boil! I couldn't get 5 gallons to a rolling boil in 45 minutes on my propane burner and this was 10 gallons. I wish I would have just ordered theirs in the first place. If I figure my parts and what my time is worth, I spent more than $250 on the one that I built. It sounds like you are a lot like me, go ahead and get the High Gravity controller. Bobby M. is working on a heat stick that hangs over the edge of your brew kettle so that you won't even need to drill a hole in your kettle. Someone else on this forum already makes one, but it looks very steampunk, almost like it was built from scrap from a scrap yard. I would trust Bobbys, I wouldn't trust the other one.

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Old 05-22-2013, 04:00 AM   #130
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I haven't read too much into the high gravity setup, but it looks like just a PWM controller. It would work, but you would have to babysit it during the mash. I prefer the set and forget of a PID controller. The Auber PID has a manual mode which acts just like the high gravity setup for controlling the boil, so you get the best of both worlds.

Just the parts for a bare minimum PID controlled electric system would probably cost about $450. Below is rough parts list, I probably missed a couple of things, but it should at least give you an idea.

Auber
--------
Box - $27
PID Controller - $45
40A SSR - $19
RTD w/ Premium Cable - $43 (Spring for the Premium cable, my homemade cable is starting to give me problems.)
Illuminated Push Button - $13 (For Element power on off only, add 1 more if you want a main power button.)
40A Contactor - $19 (For element, add 1 more for main power switch.)

Ebay
-------
Main Power Inlet and Plug - $40 (Into the control panel)
Main Power Receptacle and Plug - $20 (From the Spa panel)
Fuses / Panel mount fuse connector - $10

Lowes / Home Depot
--------
Element Receptacle and Plug - $30
Element housing (single gang box) - $10
5500W Water Heater Element - $35
4/10 Cable - $3/ft (Main Power cable)
3/10 Cable - $3/ft (Element Power Cable)
Spa Panel - $65
Misc Hardware and Wire - $30 (Hardware probably needed from Bargain Fittings)

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