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-   -   Yet Another eBIAB Build (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/yet-another-ebiab-build-282235/)

voltin 11-20-2011 02:34 AM

Yet Another eBIAB Build
 
As if there are not enough eBIAB build threads, here is my take on an electric BIAB brewery. I am going to use a 4500W / 240V heating element in a 42qt aluminum Bayou Classic stock pot. After about a month of gathering parts I was finally able to start assembling everything.

So far I have drilled all the holes into the enclosure and dry fitted all the parts. I hope to start wiring everything up tomorrow and fit the pot in a few days. Thanks to P-J for the wiring diagrams he has provided that inspired the wiring, and Kal for his awesome electric brewery from which I have stolen many ideas. Finally without further ado here are the pics.

Front Panel Layout
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e...400/layout.jpg

Power and RTD Probe Connectors Layout (Bottom of Enclosure)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...yout-power.jpg

All the Parts Finally Gathered
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...anel-parts.jpg

The Front of the Panel Drilled
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...anel-holes.jpg

The Bottom of the Panel Drilled
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...el-holes-2.jpg

All the Parts Dry Fitted on the Front
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...el-dry-fit.jpg

The Power Connectors Dry Fitted on the Bottom
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...r-dry-fits.jpg

Wiring Diagram (Inspired by P-J)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9...ng-diagram.jpg

Not Pictured
The SPA GFCI Power
Pot, heating element etc.

P-J 11-20-2011 03:33 AM

All I can say it - WOW!

I'm blown away that I could have helped you in your adventure and am very pleased with it.

Your panel layout is wonderful

P-J

artyusmc 11-20-2011 06:27 PM

Nice

I'll follow this thread

Are you going to do a parts list??

voltin 11-20-2011 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by artyusmc (Post 3502282)
Are you going to do a parts list??

Here it is.....

Auber
2 Pole 40A 240V Coil Contactor(Meant to order 120V Coil)
External Heat Sink for 40A SSR
40A SSR
Illuminated Pushbuttons (2x Red, 1x Green, 1x Blue)
SYL-2352 PID Controller
2" 1/4 NPT RTD Sensor
RTD Panel Mount Connection
120V Buzzer

Various EBay Stores
Hoffman Fiberglass Enclosure HJ1210HWPL2LG
2 Pol 40A 120V Coil Contactor
P&S L5-15 120V Locking Flanged Outlet
L14-30 Locking Connector
L6-30R Locking Receptacle
L14-30 Locking Inlet
L14-30R 30A Locking Receptacle (To be installed in SPA panel)
L14-30P 30A Locking Plug

McMaster-Carr
1/8" ID Expandable Mesh Braiding (1x Black, 1x Blue for the Probe)
1/2" ID Expandable Mesh Braiding (Black - Element Power cable)
1/32" Diameter Stainless Steel Wire Rope (RTD strain relief)
5/8" ID Heat Shrink
1/4" ID Heat Shrink
3AG/3AB Panel Mount Staight Angle Terminal Fuse Holder (2x)
1 Amp Fast Acting Fuse
10 Amp Fast Acting Fuse

Lowes / Home Depot
5500W Water Heater Element
Ground Bus Bar
Terminal Strip
10 AWG Terminal set (Ring, Spade terminals)
14 AWG Terminal set
4/10 Cable (20 ft)
GFCI Spa Panel (Home Depot)
Various Screws and Tools

Amazon
44qt Bayou Classic Aluminum Stock Pot

Bargin Fittings
1" SS Locknut and O-ring Kit
1/4 NPT - 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD Silicone O-Ring
1" NPT - 1/35"ID x 1 7/16" OD Silicone O-Ring
1/2" Wash 304SS
1/4" NPS Locknut
Whirlpool / Side pickup fitting (Reusing my current Ball Valve)
Custom Recirculation Arm

Chugger Pumps
Chugger Pump with inline stainless steel head

Signs Banners and Tags
Panel Tags

joeybeer 11-21-2011 01:56 AM

Awesome build ! It's a perfect example of what I'm hoping to make !!
Thanks for everyone's work on this !

kzimmer0817 12-05-2011 08:07 PM

Please talk me thru the operation of this panel
 
I hate to ask an extremely basic question. I'm planning to start BIAB and am very interested in going all-electric. I've seen several of these control panels, and I'm trying to make sure I understand how to operate one before I try to build it.

I would greatly appreciate it if someone would go thru the steps of operating a single vessel BIAB with this control panel. I typed what "I" think they are below, so you might only have to correct me where I'm wrong.

On the panel, I see:
1. Main Power - turns the whole controller on/off.
2. Kettle Temp - assume you set the temp you want the kettle to be at.
3. Alarm - Turns on the alarm. I assume the little alarm at the top right corner sounds depending upon what you've set the alarm in the PID to be.
4. Element - Turns on the element - or causes the element to turn on when the PID tells it to.
5. Pump - Turns on/off pump.

Steps:
1. Turn on main power
2. Set the temp you want the strike water to be on the PID
-- Do you set the alarm to go off to alert you when the water reaches the set temp?
3. Fill kettle with desired amount of water
4. Press (Southern country folks say "Mash") the Element button.
5. When water reaches desired temp, add place the bag into the kettle and add the grain.
6. Set the PID to the temp you want to mash at
7. Press the Pump button to start the recirculating pump in order to help maintain mash temps. Stir mash occasionally
-- I assume that there's no timer, so you have to keep track of the time yourself
-- If you're doing step mashing, you increase the temp on the PID for each step and monitor the times yourself.
8. When the mash it over, set the PID to the mashout temp.
9. When mashout temp is reached,
10. Turn off pump
-- pull the bag. Squeeze, rinse, or whatever.
11. Set PID to boil temp
-- I won't worry about the end of the boil.
12. When it's over, press the Element button to deactivate the element completely, then press the Main Power button to turn off the system.

Questions:
1. Pressing the Element button causes the element to turn on only so long as the PID tells it to? or does it invoke a "manual mode" so that the element turns on regardless?
2. Does the Element button stay lit, or only when the PID has it activated?
3. Is the Pump controlled by the PID, or is it simply ON/Off using the Pump button?
4. I'm assuming that there's no "Timer" setting in this particular control panel.

Thank you very much for your time,
Keith

voltin 12-07-2011 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 (Post 3544075)
I hate to ask an extremely basic question. I'm planning to start BIAB and am very interested in going all-electric. I've seen several of these control panels, and I'm trying to make sure I understand how to operate one before I try to build it.

I would greatly appreciate it if someone would go thru the steps of operating a single vessel BIAB with this control panel. I typed what "I" think they are below, so you might only have to correct me where I'm wrong.

On the panel, I see:
1. Main Power - turns the whole controller on/off.
2. Kettle Temp - assume you set the temp you want the kettle to be at.
3. Alarm - Turns on the alarm. I assume the little alarm at the top right corner sounds depending upon what you've set the alarm in the PID to be.
4. Element - Turns on the element - or causes the element to turn on when the PID tells it to.
5. Pump - Turns on/off pump.

Yep that is correct for all of them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 (Post 3544075)
Steps:
1. Turn on main power
2. Set the temp you want the strike water to be on the PID
-- Do you set the alarm to go off to alert you when the water reaches the set temp?
3. Fill kettle with desired amount of water
4. Press (Southern country folks say "Mash") the Element button.
5. When water reaches desired temp, add place the bag into the kettle and add the grain.
6. Set the PID to the temp you want to mash at
7. Press the Pump button to start the recirculating pump in order to help maintain mash temps. Stir mash occasionally
-- I assume that there's no timer, so you have to keep track of the time yourself
-- If you're doing step mashing, you increase the temp on the PID for each step and monitor the times yourself.
8. When the mash it over, set the PID to the mashout temp.
9. When mashout temp is reached,
10. Turn off pump
-- pull the bag. Squeeze, rinse, or whatever.
11. Set PID to boil temp
-- I won't worry about the end of the boil.
12. When it's over, press the Element button to deactivate the element completely, then press the Main Power button to turn off the system.

I haven't had time to finish up this build let alone brew with it yet. (Damn Grad school.) But everything up to 11 looks good. After the mash out I would set it to just below boiling (water boils at around 206 here, so probably 200) with an alarm, to make sure I am there in case of a boil over. Once it reaches just below boiling switch the PID to manual mode and run it at 70-80% (again not sure on this.) That should be a enough to keep it at a boil. Then about 5 minutes before the end of the boil, hook the pump up to my CFC and run it with boiling wort to sanitize. At "flame out" hit the element power button to kill the element. Run the pump through the CFC until I get down to pitching temps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 (Post 3544075)
Questions:
1. Pressing the Element button causes the element to turn on only so long as the PID tells it to? or does it invoke a "manual mode" so that the element turns on regardless?
2. Does the Element button stay lit, or only when the PID has it activated?
3. Is the Pump controlled by the PID, or is it simply ON/Off using the Pump button?
4. I'm assuming that there's no "Timer" setting in this particular control panel.

Thank you very much for your time,
Keith

1) That is correct. The element button is what actually connects the SSR and 2nd hot leg to the element. Without it no power flows to the element. Manual mode is handled by the PID.
2) The element button says lit as long as it is depressed (meaning the element has the capability of having power to it.)
3) The pump button just turns the pump on (rather it powers a 120V socket, which could be anything.)
4) Nope no timer. I thought about adding one it, but I have an iPhone for that.

Hope that helps.

AScott 12-09-2011 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by voltin (Post 3502329)
Here it is.....

Auber
2 Pole 40A 240V Coil (Meant to order 120V Coil)
External Heat Sink for 40A SSR
40A SSR
Illuminated Pushbuttons (2x Red, 1x Green, 1x Blue)
SYL-2352 PID Controller
2" 1/4 NPT RTD Sensor
RTD Panel Mount Connection
120V Buzzer (Should have ordered the DC version)

Why do you say you should have gotten the DC version of the buzzer? Wouldn't that require a separate 12v power supply?

Also (and I'm putting on my dunce hat here for a second), but why the contactors? Are they simply to convert the 240v to 120v to power the illuminated part of the switches or is the main reason they're there for safety? I've never done any of this type of wiring (my system is a 120v Countertop Brutus clone that just uses regular light switches) and I'm doing my research on upgrading.

Great looking build so far! :mug:

kzimmer0817 12-09-2011 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by voltin (Post 3548784)
Yep that is correct for all of them.

I haven't had time to finish up this build let alone brew with it yet. (Damn Grad school.) <snip>

Hope that helps.

Thanks. It helps a lot. I was trying to figure out how all this worked together. As you can see, I just started a couple threads in anticipation of my own E-BIAB build. Your control panel seems to be the closest to what I'm after. It's very similar to johnodon's, so I'm trying to get it figured out.

I can relate to the grad school getting in the way of a hobby. I managed to get my pilot's license during my junior year of college. During Medical School, I only flew a few times - mainly after exams. In some spare time, I read up on another hobby I hoped to develop (having a pipe organ in my home). I never got back into flying since I got married at the end of med school. With a wife, I couldn't justify the expense of joy-flying on an intern's salary. 25 years later, I was able to start on my pipe organ hobby. Now, it's beer making. Always a money-drain somewhere.

Good luck with the grad school - and your electric brewing build.

Keith

voltin 12-09-2011 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AScott (Post 3554651)
Why do you say you should have gotten the DC version of the buzzer? Wouldn't that require a separate 12v power supply?

Also (and I'm putting on my dunce hat here for a second), but why the contactors? Are they simply to convert the 240v to 120v to power the illuminated part of the switches or is the main reason they're there for safety? I've never done any of this type of wiring (my system is a 120v Countertop Brutus clone that just uses regular light switches) and I'm doing my research on upgrading.

Great looking build so far! :mug:

Actually you are right, after re-reading the documentation it seems the alarm relays are "'dry' single pole switches" which means the PID does not supply power to the relay. So it seems I made a fortunate mistake by purchasing the 120V buzzer.

The contractors are there to physically disconnect the power from the element, and control panel. They are very similar to light switches, except that the current does not run through the switch, instead the switch complete a circuit through an electromagnetic coil which pulls the contact inside the contactor to complete the higher power circuit. The advantage of this is that contactor can generally handle more amperage than a simple switch (the Auber switches are rated at 10A for example.)


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