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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > yet another 120v single element, single pump panel build
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:08 AM   #1
Elfmaze
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Default yet another 120v single element, single pump panel build

Been looking at this thread (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sug...00/index6.html) And getting some great ideas for my build.

Biggest problem is I do not have 240v in my garage so I need to keep it to 120v. Was tossed up between a PID and BCS 460 build. I think the PID is going to be cheaper and simpler to get running to start off with.

Any recommendations on parts before getting started? parts look good? taking from that build I posted.

Box: Auber ins Model: Pbox16
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=143

PID Auber ins Model: SYL-2352
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=3

Probe: Auber ins Model: PT100-L601/2NPT W/ panel mount
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=261

SSR: Auber ins Model: MGR-1D4825 and heat sink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=9

Element: Camco 02583 4500W 240V
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-Heater-E.../dp/B0006JLVC6

I'm just in basics stage here, but i guess using the PID's alarm for too high a temp would be good. Don't want to de nature the little eaters! A panel kill would be good, simple pump on/off switch with light, Main power light, And a Heat on/off indicator light with switch.

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Old 11-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #2
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You realize you will only get 1125W or so running that element at 120V, yes? A 2000W 120V element might be a better choice.

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Old 11-04-2012, 01:56 PM   #3
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I found a PJ diagram that i think is my build

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Old 11-04-2012, 06:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeh View Post
You realize you will only get 1125W or so running that element at 120V, yes? A 2000W 120V element might be a better choice.
I'm a bit capped by my availiable power in my garage. need to stay under the 15amps total, and that includes lights in the garage, radio, pump, and element. So I figured the 4500watt element vs the 5500watt would be the right choice.

I will also have a direct fire option via burner for more rapid temperature changes, I mainly need the RIMS element to slowly approach my target and hold the temp, so balance my heat loss by the kettle and evaporation. If I'm having trouble maintaining temp on colder brew days I'll have to look into insulating the lines and kettle.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:00 PM   #5
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anyone know what the 0 voltage circuit in the diagram is for? do I need it?

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Old 11-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #6
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That's neutral. Yes you need it. It completes the other half of your circuit after your load uses the current. Ground is your safety leg. It's more technical than that, but that's the gist of things.

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Old 11-04-2012, 07:54 PM   #7
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That's neutral. Yes you need it. It completes the other half of your circuit after your load uses the current. Ground is your safety leg. It's more technical than that, but that's the gist of things.
..... nevermind I'm an idiot. I'm looking at the SSR, for some reason it wasn't sinking in what it was in the diagram.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #8
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you're going to need to buy a heat sink with that ssr and you could find a 40 amp w/ heat sink including shipping cheaper here. http://www.ebrewsupply.com/index.php...re/relays.html

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