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JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 02:53 AM

Wiring Help
 
4 Attachment(s)

So I need a little help figuring out how to wire a 3 element package I bought from Ryan at electric brewing supply. I plan to adjust the schematic some by changing from a 50 amp spa panel to a 60 amp so that I can power both the Boil and HLT if I ever wanted to do a back to back batch. However with my new system uses 26 gallon kettles so I doubt I will be do that very often.

Here are the questions that I have based on the schematic found here http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/5...3-Electric.pdf. I've also attached some photos I received from Ryan to reference for layout ideas.

1. For the three element contactors they each have terminals A1, A2, 1, 2, 3, and 4. I think A1 would be the red wire in the diagram from the switch and A2 is the blue wire which goes to the LED. Then 1 and 3 are the power in (3 coming from the SSR) and 2 and 4 is the power to the element plug. Is this correct?

2. For the 63 amp contactor coming in from the GFCI disconnect. What wires go to what terminals on it? It appears that a jumper wire goes from A1 to 1 and is shown as a red 14 gauge wire and then A2 goes to the key switch. And the green LED light is connected to terminals 2 and 4 along with the other wires that then lead to the breakers.

3. What wires go to what terminal on the switches once I add the extra set of NO Contacts that came with them creating 8 terminals on each switch.

4. And lastly does anyone know how to take apart a keyed switch to put it into the box? It doesn't seem like it unscrews or comes apart and I don't want to break it.


JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 02:53 AM

Wiring Help
 
4 Attachment(s)

So I need a little help figuring out how to wire a 3 element package I bought from Ryan at electric brewing supply. I plan to adjust the schematic some by changing from a 50 amp spa panel to a 60 amp so that I can power both the Boil and HLT if I ever wanted to do a back to back batch. However with my new system uses 26 gallon kettles so I doubt I will be do that very often.

Here are the questions that I have based on the schematic found here http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/5...3-Electric.pdf. I've also attached some photos I received from Ryan to reference for layout ideas.

1. For the three element contactors they each have terminals A1, A2, 1, 2, 3, and 4. I think A1 would be the red wire in the diagram from the switch and A2 is the blue wire which goes to the LED. Then 1 and 3 are the power in (3 coming from the SSR) and 2 and 4 is the power to the element plug. Is this correct?

2. For the 63 amp contactor coming in from the GFCI disconnect. What wires go to what terminals on it? It appears that a jumper wire goes from A1 to 1 and is shown as a red 14 gauge wire and then A2 goes to the key switch. And the green LED light is connected to terminals 2 and 4 along with the other wires that then lead to the breakers.

3. What wires go to what terminal on the switches once I add the extra set of NO Contacts that came with them creating 8 terminals on each switch.

4. And lastly does anyone know how to take apart a keyed switch to put it into the box? It doesn't seem like it unscrews or comes apart and I don't want to break it.


JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 02:53 AM

Wiring Help
 
4 Attachment(s)

So I need a little help figuring out how to wire a 3 element package I bought from Ryan at electric brewing supply. I plan to adjust the schematic some by changing from a 50 amp spa panel to a 60 amp so that I can power both the Boil and HLT if I ever wanted to do a back to back batch. However with my new system uses 26 gallon kettles so I doubt I will be do that very often.

Here are the questions that I have based on the schematic found here http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/5...3-Electric.pdf. I've also attached some photos I received from Ryan to reference for layout ideas.

1. For the three element contactors they each have terminals A1, A2, 1, 2, 3, and 4. I think A1 would be the red wire in the diagram from the switch and A2 is the blue wire which goes to the LED. Then 1 and 3 are the power in (3 coming from the SSR) and 2 and 4 is the power to the element plug. Is this correct?

2. For the 63 amp contactor coming in from the GFCI disconnect. What wires go to what terminals on it? It appears that a jumper wire goes from A1 to 1 and is shown as a red 14 gauge wire and then A2 goes to the key switch. And the green LED light is connected to terminals 2 and 4 along with the other wires that then lead to the breakers.

3. What wires go to what terminal on the switches once I add the extra set of NO Contacts that came with them creating 8 terminals on each switch.

4. And lastly does anyone know how to take apart a keyed switch to put it into the box? It doesn't seem like it unscrews or comes apart and I don't want to break it.


JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 02:53 AM

Wiring Help
 
4 Attachment(s)

So I need a little help figuring out how to wire a 3 element package I bought from Ryan at electric brewing supply. I plan to adjust the schematic some by changing from a 50 amp spa panel to a 60 amp so that I can power both the Boil and HLT if I ever wanted to do a back to back batch. However with my new system uses 26 gallon kettles so I doubt I will be do that very often.

Here are the questions that I have based on the schematic found here http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/5...3-Electric.pdf. I've also attached some photos I received from Ryan to reference for layout ideas.

1. For the three element contactors they each have terminals A1, A2, 1, 2, 3, and 4. I think A1 would be the red wire in the diagram from the switch and A2 is the blue wire which goes to the LED. Then 1 and 3 are the power in (3 coming from the SSR) and 2 and 4 is the power to the element plug. Is this correct?

2. For the 63 amp contactor coming in from the GFCI disconnect. What wires go to what terminals on it? It appears that a jumper wire goes from A1 to 1 and is shown as a red 14 gauge wire and then A2 goes to the key switch. And the green LED light is connected to terminals 2 and 4 along with the other wires that then lead to the breakers.

3. What wires go to what terminal on the switches once I add the extra set of NO Contacts that came with them creating 8 terminals on each switch.

4. And lastly does anyone know how to take apart a keyed switch to put it into the box? It doesn't seem like it unscrews or comes apart and I don't want to break it.


JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 04:47 PM

3 Attachment(s)

The main contactor (63 amp) from Ryan should be able to handle 60 amp service. The reason I want to use 60 amp instead of 50 is to safely power both 5500 watt elements. 5500/240=22.9 amps 23*2= 46 amps. There should be an 80% factor built in for safety so 60 amps X 80% = 48 amps. This also insures that there is enough amperage to cover the RIMS and pumps if I ever powered it all at once.

So a friend shared this diagram that PJ did which is pretty much what I will be doing. Instead of the buss bars though that he has shown I will be going through the 63 amp contactor then feeding all of the breakers from there. For the contactors though I'm still unsure what wire goes where. I think that PJ's diagram clears it up somewhat for me but maybe someone here can tell me if I'm thinking of this correctly.


Terminal A1 is the neutral
Terminal A2 would be coming from the switch
Terminal 2 is line 1 in
Terminal 4 comes from the SSR terminal 2
Terminal 1 is line 1 out to element plug (Blue in PJ's Diagram)
Terminal 3 is line 2 out to element plug (Red in PJ's Diagram)

The only other item that I will be changing is the power to the BCS 462 since I want it to always be on since it will monitor my fermentation chambers as well. That is an easy thing to do by just pulling in a separate power supply into my control panel for it through another breaker in the spa panel.


JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 04:47 PM

3 Attachment(s)

The main contactor (63 amp) from Ryan should be able to handle 60 amp service. The reason I want to use 60 amp instead of 50 is to safely power both 5500 watt elements. 5500/240=22.9 amps 23*2= 46 amps. There should be an 80% factor built in for safety so 60 amps X 80% = 48 amps. This also insures that there is enough amperage to cover the RIMS and pumps if I ever powered it all at once.

So a friend shared this diagram that PJ did which is pretty much what I will be doing. Instead of the buss bars though that he has shown I will be going through the 63 amp contactor then feeding all of the breakers from there. For the contactors though I'm still unsure what wire goes where. I think that PJ's diagram clears it up somewhat for me but maybe someone here can tell me if I'm thinking of this correctly.


Terminal A1 is the neutral
Terminal A2 would be coming from the switch
Terminal 2 is line 1 in
Terminal 4 comes from the SSR terminal 2
Terminal 1 is line 1 out to element plug (Blue in PJ's Diagram)
Terminal 3 is line 2 out to element plug (Red in PJ's Diagram)

The only other item that I will be changing is the power to the BCS 462 since I want it to always be on since it will monitor my fermentation chambers as well. That is an easy thing to do by just pulling in a separate power supply into my control panel for it through another breaker in the spa panel.


JohnnyBe 01-22-2013 04:47 PM

3 Attachment(s)

The main contactor (63 amp) from Ryan should be able to handle 60 amp service. The reason I want to use 60 amp instead of 50 is to safely power both 5500 watt elements. 5500/240=22.9 amps 23*2= 46 amps. There should be an 80% factor built in for safety so 60 amps X 80% = 48 amps. This also insures that there is enough amperage to cover the RIMS and pumps if I ever powered it all at once.

So a friend shared this diagram that PJ did which is pretty much what I will be doing. Instead of the buss bars though that he has shown I will be going through the 63 amp contactor then feeding all of the breakers from there. For the contactors though I'm still unsure what wire goes where. I think that PJ's diagram clears it up somewhat for me but maybe someone here can tell me if I'm thinking of this correctly.


Terminal A1 is the neutral
Terminal A2 would be coming from the switch
Terminal 2 is line 1 in
Terminal 4 comes from the SSR terminal 2
Terminal 1 is line 1 out to element plug (Blue in PJ's Diagram)
Terminal 3 is line 2 out to element plug (Red in PJ's Diagram)

The only other item that I will be changing is the power to the BCS 462 since I want it to always be on since it will monitor my fermentation chambers as well. That is an easy thing to do by just pulling in a separate power supply into my control panel for it through another breaker in the spa panel.



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