Rickochet

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I have been searching through threads & posts for the vast amount of wiring diagrams. The majority of them are generated by P-J who provides a very clear picture for the entire panel and associated wire. Is there a way to search only for the wiring diagrams that are available with out looking though each post? Does anyone have all of the wiring diagrams readily available in one common location?

If not, I could see such a thread to be a huge time saver! Thanks

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Rick

It is easier to do things right the 1st time rather than to explain why it wasn't when you have to do it the 2nd time.

Tinga

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tell us what you're looking for and maybe we can find one to suit your needs.

Rickochet

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Here's the plan:

240 volt 50 Amp GFI Spa Panel
6/3 with ground conductor
50 Amp main control power contactor with 120 volt coil
Main power switch
4 30 amp breakers
1 20 amp breaker
1 1 amp fuse for E-stop
1 12 pole terminal block
2 2362 PID's
2 Switches to control PID Power
2 40 Amp SSR
2 30 Amp contactors to control element power 240 volt coils
2 Switches to control Element contactors
2 5500 Watt Elements
2 Pumps
2 Switches to control pumps
1 E-stop Switch
6 LED's to indicate power for control switches
2 30 Amp 240 volt receptacles
2 20 Amp 120 volt receptacles
2 RTD thermocouples

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Rick

It is easier to do things right the 1st time rather than to explain why it wasn't when you have to do it the 2nd time.

stlbeer

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I'd switch out the 2362's for 2352's. They are easier to put into manual mode. The only thing you're missing is a timer. Have you considered using an Auber SWA-2451? PID + Timer.

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My RIMS eBrewery build

Rickochet

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I already have the 2362's and all of the other items listed. All I need is the wiring schematic and I will be rolling. Thanks!

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Rick

It is easier to do things right the 1st time rather than to explain why it wasn't when you have to do it the 2nd time.

P-J

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Rick,

Got your PM. It'll take me some time and I'll work on it for you.

Based on your plan for 6 LED indicator lights, I'm thinking that the switches you chose to use are:
Auber Instruments - Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO - SW4 units.

Is that correct?

Also, what switch are you planning to use for the main power switch - The SW8 Key Switch or something else?

Edit: Your contactors have 240V coils. Correct? You already purchased them? Reason I'm asking is that might change your switch configuration and would possibly need additional modules for the control switches. Also do you have 2 or 3 total contactors? Please let me know.

P-J

Rickochet

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P-J,
Thanks for the fast reply with the questions for clarification. Some of the components may be a little different from the typical because I had most of them readily available from previous projects. The only items I had to buy were the PID's, RTD thermocouples & the GFI spa panel.

I noted the additional details in red text. If you need more info, please let me know. Thanks again!

240 volt 50 Amp GFI Spa Panel--Home Depot, Already installed w/ receptacle to accept plug from control panel
6/3 with ground conductor--Hard wired to control panel contactor; other end, 50 amp plug to connect to the spa receptacle
50 Amp main control power contactor with 120 volt coil
Main power switch--Simple SPST NO switch to control main contactor
4 30 amp breakers
1 20 amp breaker
1 1 amp fuse for E-stop
1 12 pole terminal block
2 2362 PID's
2 Switches to control PID Power--SPST NO switch
2 40 Amp SSR
2 30 Amp contactors to control element power 240 volt coils--240v coils because I already had these in my spare parts stash
2 Switches to control Element contactors--SPST NO switch
2 5500 Watt Elements--Connected to 30 amp receptacles
2 Pumps--Connected to 20 amp receptacles
2 Switches to control pumps--SPST NO switch
1 E-stop Switch--Momentary NO push button switch
6 LED's to indicate power for controlled devices--2 240v red for element on indication, 2 120v yellow for pump on indication, 1 120v green for panel on/in operation indication (main contactor closed), 1 120v blue for power indication available from Spa panel (main contactor open)
2 30 Amp 240 volt receptacles
2 20 Amp 120 volt receptacles
2 RTD thermocouples

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Rick

It is easier to do things right the 1st time rather than to explain why it wasn't when you have to do it the 2nd time.

P-J

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Can you add a module to that switch to make it a DPST? Reason I'm asking is it is being used to energize a 240V contactor coil. The switch needs to be a DPST unit so that both lines going to the contactor are interupted when switched off.

BTW: Do you have a link to the switch so that I can see it?

P-J

P-J

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Rick,

I need to know about the switches that you will be using (Links would help a lot so that I can see them and provide the proper information in the diagram.) so that I can make the diagram for you. Without that info I'm at a dead stand still.

It's up to you.

Rickochet

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P-J,
The switches are Cutler-Hammer stack type and I can easily change the contact blocks to make a DPST. I do not have an exact link to them as they are older New Old Stock switches, however they are similar to this switch. http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/eaton30mm2select.pdf

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Rick

It is easier to do things right the 1st time rather than to explain why it wasn't when you have to do it the 2nd time.