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Old 11-30-2012, 12:00 AM   #11
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Default Try as I might with this schematic.

Poured over numerous wiring diagrams. Not pretty nor perfect. Appreciate any and all help. Changed Ground from PID Pin 9 to Neutral.

wiring-diagram-submitted.jpg  
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Last edited by scottstribling; 11-30-2012 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Added fuses and an EPO switch.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:13 AM   #12
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PID needs either Hot 2 and Neutral (120v) or Hot 1 and Hot 2 (240v) for power. Hot 2 and Ground is not a proper wiring solution.

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Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit (10 dumped)


Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Belgian Wit (Failure)
Keg 3: American Pale Ale
Fermenting: Belgian Wit (Take 2)
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:25 AM   #13
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Changed the ground to neutral on PID pin 9. How about the rest? Thanks.

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Old 11-30-2012, 02:31 AM   #14
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I'm looking on my phone and don't have the pin-out for your timer or PID in front of me. I did notice no EPO or power on / off switch. Neither are truly necessary I suppose.

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Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit (10 dumped)


Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Belgian Wit (Failure)
Keg 3: American Pale Ale
Fermenting: Belgian Wit (Take 2)
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:04 AM   #15
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Added EPO since my GFCI is located in the main breaker box, across the house. Also added fuses.

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Old 12-03-2012, 01:23 AM   #16
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Bump

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:31 PM   #17
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So your e-stop button just shorts one leg to ground through a resistor, shutting it down by popping your breaker?

I would not do this. You should run the two hot legs into your box through a GFCI, then into a contactor that is controlled by the e-stop switch. Relying on a breaker to pop as your only safety device is a bad idea IMO. No sense doing an electric build and spending all this money to do so and then cheaping out on a $20 contactor...

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:48 PM   #18
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The EPO debate has been hashed countless times. One side of the fence is that the way you test your GFCI breaker (that little button) does the same thing as letting a small trickle charge go to ground, and thus it should be safe enough for our use. Using the GFCI allows ALL power to be killed to the panel. The other school of thought is that the GFCI is a safety device only and shouldn't be used and that opening the contactor is good enough and the areas of the panel that are still powered are acceptable.

To each their own... but let's not turn his thread into another EPO debate - there are enough of those already.

scottstribling - It looks good to me. You don't have any lights to indicate pump on condition, but that's not really required, your call. I can't tell what rating your fuses are. I'd suggest a 1a for the EPO, maybe a 2a for the PIDs, and a 2 or 3a slow-blow for the pumps.

-Kevin

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Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit (10 dumped)


Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Belgian Wit (Failure)
Keg 3: American Pale Ale
Fermenting: Belgian Wit (Take 2)
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