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Old 05-06-2012, 03:05 AM   #1
condonagon
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Default Wiring diagram help

so i've been using PJ's diagram and kals website to try and transform my brewery from being propane fired, to electric fired. the trouble is that i have very little experience with electronics, and ive come to a place where is feel i should ask for help.

this is what i have so far:



so i realize that this is not completed, but i was hoping someone here might be able to help me draw the rest of the lines!


the HLT outlet is this one: (and the picture should say HLT not MLT)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B003AUNPG8

for the switches i used the same ones that are on www.theelectricbrewery.com

let me know if there is any other information that you need to further help me. also, a good friend of mine is an electrician, so dont worry, i wasnt just gonna plug this thing in but i wanted to atleast try on my own!

EDIT: i am sorry, my diagram is most shameful.

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Old 05-06-2012, 09:35 PM   #2
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upon further review, i realized that i forgot to mention a couple of things.

for the power source, im gonna use a 220v power cord, rated for 40amps, 4 wires.

the ssr is a 40amp.

to start, i just want to get the one element to fire, do i have to have something else attached to the other leg of my 3 position switch? or can i just leave it empty?

is it important to use terminal blocks rather than wire nuts?

do i have to use a "relay" in my setup?

any and all help is greatly appreciated, thank you all!

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Old 05-07-2012, 01:11 AM   #3
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Just to help me understand what is going on here.

It looks like you are only using 110v so far. To have 220v you need to use yellow and red. I am guessing your pumps are 110v, and your PID can drive the pumps. Those boxes named "pump 1" and "pump 2" are physical switches (could you directly link to them). Also, is the SSR a solid state relay? Is that what is driving the heating element? Does the heating element have 2 or 3 wires. And how big are your kettles?

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Old 05-07-2012, 03:07 AM   #4
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condonagon

see if this helps:

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Old 05-07-2012, 03:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreso View Post
Just to help me understand what is going on here.

It looks like you are only using 110v so far. To have 220v you need to use yellow and red. I am guessing your pumps are 110v, and your PID can drive the pumps. Those boxes named "pump 1" and "pump 2" are physical switches (could you directly link to them). Also, is the SSR a solid state relay? Is that what is driving the heating element? Does the heating element have 2 or 3 wires. And how big are your kettles?

thanks for responding!
my PID is going to control my heating element in my HLT.
this: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits

the boxes labeled pump 1 and pump 2 are switches. both the same 1 NO contactor. i already have these wired up and functional.

the SSR is a solid state relay rated at 40amps. and it will drive the heating element listed above.
my kettles are 20 gallons.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatrickwah View Post
condonagon

see if this helps:
im afraid i dont understand, this setup is much different than mine. does that mean i need to have additional components for my control panel to work?
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condonagon View Post
im afraid i dont understand, this setup is much different than mine. does that mean i need to have additional components for my control panel to work?
Sorry, there are only really 3 additional items to your drawing. I'm a believer in breaking down the 30a or 50a circuits to less dangerous amperages, hence the breakers in line. The estop can be a 2-way switch or a locking mushroom switch, whatever you desire.

The PID drives the SSR on the low voltage side, while turning on and off the high voltage side. On the 220v side there is a 2-pole contactor. The contactor is another fail safe. With it, you can physically shut off your element without having to cut the power to the entire panel, this is smart for your own safety, and for the element. While an SSR will shut off your element, it doesn't completely cut off the current, there is still leakage, whereas the contactor will cut power completely.

I did however, miss your PID on/off switch, this can be added inline on the hot side easily though.

Hope this helps.
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