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Old 01-01-2013, 08:45 PM   #21
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On a safety stand point. How many people do brews on their stove? Is there Gfci Protection on your stove?
No - But then the stove has not been wired by a mystery man trying to build something that he has no clue about doing so.

Plus the stove has been certified and approved before the fabrication of it.

I suggest that all of the naysayers get real. This whole game is playing "You Bet Your Life!"


Get over it....!!!!
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:04 PM   #22
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Great now I'm paranoid! I'm going to home depot to get a bunch of gfci's for my water heater, washing machine, keureg, and the 7 gallon coffee urn at the office!

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Old 01-01-2013, 11:23 PM   #23
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On a safety stand point. How many people do brews on their stove? Is there Gfci Protection on your stove?
Your stove is built and assembled as a complete unit, and if you purchased it in the US it is tested and listed by Underwriters Laboratories and / or Factory Mutual to safely function as a stove.

Until one of us goes and gets our hodge-podged control panel / brewery setup tested and listed by UL and production standards are monitored by the Consumer Products Safety Commission, I don't see it as a fair comparison.

-Kevin

Well damn... P-J beat me to the punch...
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Last edited by BadNewsBrewery; 01-01-2013 at 11:24 PM. Reason: P-J beat me to the punch.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:47 PM   #24
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...
Well damn... P-J beat me to the punch...
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:43 AM   #25
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It seems to me that there is a lot of unnecessary pieces in most peoples EBIAB Builds. Don't get me wrong I think these things are awesome but has nobody built any simple versions? Why have a switch for the heat, should the temperature controller not do that? Turn the PID on you have heat, turn it off you don't! Same for the pump, plug it in it's on, unplug it its off! Can I just use a 30Amp Gfci breaker on my dryer or stove circuit? I love all these high tech an Shinny builds, but I want this thing to do one thing, make the great beer that I have been making for years!!
I went the easy analog route. 30 amp gfi. Two receptacles, one for the HLT (a 20 liter/1300 watt water tank with its own rheostat and switch) and a plain old switched one for the 4500 watt element in the 36 liter BK. The boil in the kettle is perfect, no need for adjustment (works out to about 3400 watts for me on my grid here in Japan).
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:13 AM   #26
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I think there's a lot of "extra" or "nice to have" stuff in a lot of the panels I've seen on here. Heck even mine has some .

I actually ordered a 2nd temp probe & PID for the MLT thinking I was going to use it to control recirculation during the mash (so I could maintain different temps in HLT & MLT). Ended up opting against that so now I have a pricy thermometer . Maybe I'll change my mind down the road though - who knows.

Another thing while building my most recent panel was some of the lights - do I really need pump lights & pump switches & the obvious noise from the pumps running (3x indicators that the thing is on)? I opted to go with the lights because I was like "Eh... it's like $4 why not?" but I don't see how they are a legit safety feature .

I do think indicator lamps for the elements are a real safety feature though. There's no other real obvious indicator of when the thing is firing that I could see at a glance from the other side of the room.

I definitely left out the volt meter, ammeter, panel-mount timer, & stuff like that though.

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Old 01-02-2013, 04:14 AM   #27
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Great now I'm paranoid! I'm going to home depot to get a bunch of gfci's for my water heater, washing machine, keureg, and the 7 gallon coffee urn at the office!
You should, if you start stirring your water heater, washing machine, or coffee with a metal mash paddle or metal spoon while they are on.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:19 PM   #28
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For me - I have two pumps, so knowing wich is on and which isn't can't be done by sound alone - quick glimpse at the panel tells me. Also, you're spot on with the element light - I was running my first full volume test (water) yesterday and I heared weird noises, but a quick check of the panel told me it was the sound of the element firing, and it was easy to confirm wich one.

Really, I think the GFCI and breakers and EPO are the only safety features. The rest are nice-to-haves... if I dry fire an element or run a pump dry and kill them, I'm not hurting anyone or doing anything 'unsafe' - just stupid.

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Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit (10 dumped)


Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Belgian Wit (Failure)
Keg 3: American Pale Ale
Fermenting: Belgian Wit (Take 2)
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:28 PM   #29
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Point taken about the breakers and especially with reconsideration given the average person building the systems (myself included) having a high chance of screwing something up in the design, build and regular operation. It's probably a good idea to always recommend the breakers or at least fuses.

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Old 01-04-2013, 12:40 AM   #30
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I actually ordered a 2nd temp probe & PID for the MLT thinking I was going to use it to control recirculation during the mash (so I could maintain different temps in HLT & MLT). Ended up opting against that so now I have a pricy thermometer .
Do you want to sell the 2nd ones cheap?
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