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Old 08-13-2012, 03:52 PM   #1
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Default Weldless heating element

I "think" I asked this question a long time ago, but I can't find the thread nor the answer.

Has anyone tried either of the following elements from High Gravity:
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/produ...idproduct=2669
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/produ...idproduct=2514

The nut and washer to mount these:
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/produ...-Kit-p2652.htm

Each of these requires a 1.25" hole.

I don't understand why the 4500 watt element is longer than the 5500.

The reason I'm asking is that this looks much, much simpler than most of the methods folks are using for their e-kettles such as Kal's and the many variations.

BTW, Ben from Spike Brewing (www.spikebrewing.com) just informed me that he will soon be offering a kettle with a 1" fitting for the mounting of a heating element.

Thanks,
Keith

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Old 08-13-2012, 04:09 PM   #2
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They are charging quite a premium for a cordset and some heatshrink tubing.

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Old 08-13-2012, 04:17 PM   #3
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I made my own using kal's design + an NPT to tripclamp adapter which I guess is only valid if you have tripclamps...

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Old 08-13-2012, 08:33 PM   #4
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I used a SS electrical box with gasketing (might be NEMA4 rated, I can check). Not a big fan of the big box/ outlet route, so I have a pigtail with water resistant strain relief. Check out the pics:





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Old 08-13-2012, 08:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dert
I used a SS electrical box with gasketing (might be NEMA4 rated, I can check). Not a big fan of the big box/ outlet route, so I have a pigtail with water resistant strain relief. Check out the pics:
Oh, and I did change the cord end to male...
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #6
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And I used a soldered locknut. IRC, the order is element, box, silicone gasket, soldered locknut, keg.

The box is really attached well and used no JB Weld. I also have a separate ground to the kettle and metal stand (tested with an ohm meter).

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Old 08-14-2012, 03:23 AM   #7
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Yeah, I see no reason to pay $90 for their element and kit. I'd still suggest potting the element connections somehow. Heat shrink over them doesn't seem like the greatest way to go. You can build something much sturdier for way cheaper. There's s thread called "show me your element housing" or something like that. Lot's of creative suggestions there.

If you're short on tools, you can always JB Weld the back of your element to the electrical box. This gives you enough play to attach the weldless locknut and gasket inside the keg.

Go for it.

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Old 08-14-2012, 05:22 AM   #8
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Why does everyone here think its ok to use JB Weld for 240 volt connections?

It's one thing on a external box on a keg, but others are using it submersed in the wort??!!

Even outside the wort, I would never trust some epoxy mix with holding back instant death.

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Old 08-15-2012, 04:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dert View Post
Why does everyone here think its ok to use JB Weld for 240 volt connections?
every minute of every day, someone, somewhere, is doing something stupid with JB weld.

its just a fact of life.

(edit: i wasnt saying that dgonzas idea was stupid, just a general remark about things ive seen JB weld used on... it should not be used as an electrical insulator, for instance, or for critical / structural purposes, like hanging a 600 pound chandelier over your sofa)
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Old 08-15-2012, 05:05 PM   #10
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I think he was talking about using it externally, using it to connect the back of the element connection to the outside of an electrical box, with the wiring connections going thru a hole in the box. That way the wiring on the element connection ends up inside the box, and the gasket and element "face" end up outside the box sealing up against the locknut/coupler/spud. If there is a leak, the wiring is isolated from the the liquid. The JB Weld is just a means of attaching the element to the electrical box plate.....at least that's what I think he meant.....I agree that JBW shouldn't be used as an all-encompassing insulator or water-proofer

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