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Old 12-01-2011, 03:19 PM   #21
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this is an interesting idea. just ordered a set of 1" and 1.5" camlocks... we will see how they work. my guess is that the 1.5" are going to be better/easier to work with. they will just require a 1.5 to 1" reducing bushing as mentioned.

i bought the (female camlock to female NPT- type B) to thread the element into, and then (male camlock to male barb- type E) to weld into the keg.

havnt picked an element yet- if anyone wants to post some measurements of the diameter of their elements that might be useful. ill post the ID of the fittings when i find out.

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Old 12-01-2011, 03:59 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by audger View Post
this is an interesting idea. just ordered a set of 1" and 1.5" camlocks... we will see how they work. my guess is that the 1.5" are going to be better/easier to work with. they will just require a 1.5 to 1" reducing bushing as mentioned.

i bought the (female camlock to female NPT- type B) to thread the element into, and then (male camlock to male barb- type E) to weld into the keg.

havnt picked an element yet- if anyone wants to post some measurements of the diameter of their elements that might be useful. ill post the ID of the fittings when i find out.
Do you mean you ordered a type D to thread the element in to? The type B has male threads. Below is a type D.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:16 PM   #23
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Any reason you decided against triclover? There is no need to get that $75 fitting when you can get an element waterproof and in a TC fitting for about $25. The other ferrule and clamp are not expensive either.

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Old 12-01-2011, 07:35 PM   #24
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I think the reason I haven't considered it is because I'm concerned that too much of the element will be tied up in the fittings.
This will not be a problem if you mount the ferrule close to your keg. Look at how I mounted mine in my keggle. It sticks out 1/2". No, my element is not tri clamp removable, but it would be if I wanted it to be (I don't think it's necessary). All I would have to do is mount the element in another tri clamp end cap and clamp it to the end cap that is welded to the keg. It will stick out less than one inch.

Also, the first inch of the heating element doesn't even heat, so you don't have to even worry about too much of the element "tied up in the fittings."

my keggle:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/keg...n-pics-259848/
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:44 PM   #25
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I'd love a Camlock option for those of us that can't weld

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Old 12-01-2011, 08:10 PM   #26
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I bet it would also be easy enough to drill and tap the end of a dust cap but then again, I don't have any 1" taps sitting around.

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Old 12-01-2011, 08:45 PM   #27
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I'd love a Camlock option for those of us that can't weld
He was comparing cam lock to tri clover, so I assumed he was able to weld. I don't think not being able to weld is a big deal, though. You can always get it done at a welding shop.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:48 PM   #28
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I bet it would also be easy enough to drill and tap the end of a dust cap but then again, I don't have any 1" taps sitting around.
You can get a used 1" tap on ebay for not much coin. I shopped around when I designed my keggle, but ultimately decided to mount my element in a way which did not require tapping 1" threads.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:31 PM   #29
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If anything the triclamp probably is more compact than the camlock. I was able to solder in the short 1.5" ferrule from brewershardware.

You still have to have a way to attach the camlock to the pot, so I don't see how it's inherently weldless.

What kind of gaskets come with the larger camlock sizes?

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Old 12-02-2011, 03:05 AM   #30
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I just checked and the folded over LWD element won't pass through a 1" ID male camlock. You'd have to go up to 1.5". Maybe the HWD version would fit but I wouldn't use it in a kettle.

I don't think it's a question about welded vs. weldless but just another way of making the element easily detachable for cleaning.

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