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Old 11-08-2010, 11:22 PM   #11
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John at Stout Tanks and Kettles is working on a system for me that uses tri-clamp ports for elements. I think they are just 1.5" TC x 1" NPS.

The camlock solution sounds cool though, I think that would work beautifully. My advice would be to get 1.5" or 2" camlocks, with a female end on the female camlock, then use a hex bushing to reduce to 1" for the element.
Also make sure to put the male camlock (bulkhead) right through the wall of the kettle then put a locknut on it inside (or weld). That should keep the base of the element close enough into the kettle.

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Old 11-10-2010, 02:12 AM   #12
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Why do you want to remove the element?
We brew 2-3 times a week and never have taken the element out
(have a spare set if one goes bad) Every time you fiddle daddle with it you have a chance to damage something.

the first page or two show how we set our 55 gallon kettle up

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/squa...ctures-144764/

BTW the brewery is up and running selling beer.
we currently have 6 42 gallon blichmann conicals

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Old 08-31-2011, 05:19 AM   #13
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It should work....but the type of element could cause issues. If it's ULD or LD it'll be folded back and you may not be able to get it thru the camlock. Give it a try...you can buy the orings cheap from mcmaster. Great idea, wish I thought of that....mine's triclover, but camlocks are pretty sweet too.
do you know which size of silicone oring will fit the 1" cam and groove?
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:00 AM   #14
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Viton is a brand name for fluoroelastomers. Fluoroelastomer o-rings will be more expensive than silicone and not quite as hot water resistant. Also, not all of them are food grade. Go with silicone.

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Old 09-07-2011, 03:57 PM   #15
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Here is a ready made tri-clover option: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

They work great and cover the terminal connections completely. You'll need to use a standard element with this instead of the RIPP elements.

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Old 09-07-2011, 04:23 PM   #16
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Here is a ready made tri-clover option: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

They work great and cover the terminal connections completely. You'll need to use a standard element with this instead of the RIPP elements.
Nice, but you are looking at a $75 solution vs a $25 cam solution from proflowdynamics; cost may be an issue.

Additionally a number of people have reported on the fitting you link to that their is not a complete weld around the coupling, and is not water-tight.

Just something to consider.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:09 PM   #17
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Did anyone manage to find a 1" Camlock to 1" NPS fitting? I believe heater elements are NPS, not NPT and thus I haven't found any.

As to why, I find my fixed elements start getting covered in crud after a few BIAB sessions, probably not an issue in more traditional setups.

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Old 11-29-2011, 05:57 AM   #18
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Has anyone tried this yet with the 1" Camlocks? I love the idea and was wondering if there are any results out there yet.

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Old 11-29-2011, 12:55 PM   #19
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Did anyone manage to find a 1" Camlock to 1" NPS fitting? I believe heater elements are NPS, not NPT and thus I haven't found any.

As to why, I find my fixed elements start getting covered in crud after a few BIAB sessions, probably not an issue in more traditional setups.
I think you'd probably have to chase the threads with a tap, I've never seen an NPS threaded camlock.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:56 PM   #20
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Many people are using 1" NPT fittings for their elements. I understand that the elements are NPS but they will seal. I'm wondering if the id of the camlock is large enough for an ULWD element to fit. I hope it is because this would be a fabulous solution.

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