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Old 02-12-2014, 03:40 AM   #41
Ramdough
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So, the element that I selected is a straight ULWD element. It was $17. I am tempted to use that one for my HLT and boil kettle to save some money over the ripple ones Kal uses. Is there a huge advantage to the ripple elements over the straight ones?


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Old 02-12-2014, 12:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramdough View Post
So, the element that I selected is a straight ULWD element. It was $17. I am tempted to use that one for my HLT and boil kettle to save some money over the ripple ones Kal uses. Is there a huge advantage to the ripple elements over the straight ones?


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just more surface area to the beer and with that the heat is distributed a bit more evenly. its a bit less likely to burn the wort... if its a ULDW at least you should be fine.... as others have stated even regular ldw elements work ok they just might scorch the wort depending on how much you keep the wort moving around them. In rim elements its very easy to get stuck flow and burn the wort. Not as easy in a BK.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:14 AM   #43
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My system is built as cheaply as possible. It's all common electrical boxes, switches,etc. At least half was salvaged from jobs I worked. I use a 3 way switch to switch between 240 and 120v rather than a reostat and ssr. @120v The strait element can keep a good roll after boil has started, but the ripple does not (I'm impatient, so yes, my bk has two elements. I also have a heat stick that I use to boil as well as decoct in the MT). It is still putting out the same joules, just over a larger area, so the boil seems less vigorous. It works fine for me. I simply kick it up 240v for the last ten min to burn off any extra dms (if any). If you already have a strait element give it a go. I think you would need a high gravity to get it to scorch. I only run my strait elements@ 120v, so I can't say. I have scorched a batch using hd 120v elements before. I figured the extra $10 for the ripple was a good investment to ensure I never have to taste that again... I'm forcing myself to drink it as punishment for stupidly destroying a good bitter. Lol.

Another good thing is with the ripple the heat density is so low you can dry fire it for longer before destroying it.

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Old 02-14-2014, 05:23 AM   #44
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I would be surprised if 1375w couldn't keep up with a rims. What wattage/ voltage did you pick up. My 5500w lwd elements put out 1375w@120v. I used one on a heat stick to decoct 15lb of grain@ 1.5/1 from 145° to 152° in I'd say 4 min. I was two bombers into it so take my grasp of time for what it's worth . Just sayin that @that low a heat density there is certainly nothing to worry about and it should be enough for holding temp easily. With a 240v option you could step real easily on the rims.

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Old 02-15-2014, 01:44 AM   #45
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So I have a straight 5500 watt ULWD element for my Rims that will run on 120v. For my boils kettle, I am using a ripple element. I may do the same thing for the HLT, but I have not decided yet. Thanks everyone for your input.


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Old 02-15-2014, 03:59 PM   #46
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U can use whatever in the HLT. The larger elements are better in hard water situations when used in a water heater. With the two 1500w 120v HWD elements in my HLT it all works fine for me.

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Old 02-16-2014, 07:08 PM   #47
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The all barey batch I made yesterday didn't leave much gunk on the 2kw 240V RIMS (LWD) element. I think I'll have to be quite careful with wheat beers.

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