Home Brew Forums

Home Brew Forums (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum.php)
-   Electric Brewing (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/)
-   -   Two 2000w on 120v 50amp Circuit? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/two-2000w-120v-50amp-circuit-293350/)

seatbelt123 01-10-2012 01:30 AM

Two 2000w on 120v 50amp Circuit?
 
I have 50am 120v service in my garage. I brew all grain (single vessel BIAB) so my pre-boil volume is about 7 to 7.5 gallons.

For a variety of reasons I want to switch to electric. I'm aware of the spa panel option but would prefer to stick with 120v service.

Would it be possible to:
1. Run extension to project box with two switched outlet supporting two 2000w elements.
2. Add a third switched outlet to the same box to support a pump.

I plan on firing both elements to get up to boil while running one for mash and rolling boil.

Thanks in advance, you guys are a great resource!

Cpt_Kirks 01-10-2012 02:43 PM

Yes.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...s/DSCN0121.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...s/DSCN0048.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...s/DSCN0049.jpg

audger 01-10-2012 02:54 PM

4000w / 120v = 33.3 amps

33 amps is < 50 amps

Cpt_Kirks 01-10-2012 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audger (Post 3647788)
4000w / 120v = 33.3 amps

33 amps is < 50 amps

I run the rig above on two 20amp 120v circuits.

Bobby_M 01-10-2012 03:25 PM

I'm just curious why you would want to stick with 120v? I'm guessing it's because you only have a black/white/bare cable running out there. It's just that you can get so much more power out of a 240v conversion.

Cpt_Kirks 01-10-2012 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M (Post 3647908)
I'm just curious why you would want to stick with 120v? I'm guessing it's because you only have a black/white/bare cable running out there. It's just that you can get so much more power out of a 240v conversion.

For me, it's just not worth the investment right now. I would have to add a 240v GFCI breaker to the box, add an outlet, redo my keggles to take the 5500watt elements, and add controls (which would mean automation, if I do it, I'll do it right).

Probably at least $200, plus the time. Just to trim 20 to 30 minutes off the brew day.

Frankly, my two 2000watt element, manually controlled rig works fine. For now.

:mug:

seatbelt123 01-10-2012 04:03 PM

I'm in the same boat regarding the choice to stick with 120v. This will be an easy/fun/cheap project.

seatbelt123 01-10-2012 06:14 PM

Homedepot sells the Camco 2000 watt elements. They are probably high density.

Do you think this could cause scorching?

Thanks!

lzrdkng14 01-10-2012 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks (Post 3647992)
For me, it's just not worth the investment right now. I would have to add a 240v GFCI breaker to the box, add an outlet, redo my keggles to take the 5500watt elements, and add controls (which would mean automation, if I do it, I'll do it right).

Probably at least $200, plus the time. Just to trim 20 to 30 minutes off the brew day.

Frankly, my two 2000watt element, manually controlled rig works fine. For now.

:mug:

Do you have a thread that shows the specifics for your build?

Cpt_Kirks 01-10-2012 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seatbelt123 (Post 3648626)
Homedepot sells the Camco 2000 watt elements. They are probably high density.

Do you think this could cause scorching?

Thanks!

High Density elements scorching wort has been pretty much debunked as a myth. It simply does not seem to happen in the BK.

Now, high density elements will scorch the mash. Grain even sticks to the elements and burns, I have had that happen.


All times are GMT. The time now is 05:36 PM.

Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.