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Old 11-07-2012, 07:01 PM   #51
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It just dawned on me the very serious problem that I'm having in understanding the wiring within this setup. The wire being used is a 3 wire cord meant for 120V power. It has been repurposed for a 240V feed. The wires (as illustrated in the photos) are still the black, white & green conductors that have been repurposed.

To the OP. Go to the store and buy rolls of electrical (Ace Hardware will have them) tape in the colors required for your set up.

A roll of White, Black, Red & Green will get you there.

Now with that, flag the wires (in other words - cover the insulation color completely) within your controller using the tape so that each one represents the actual electrical circuit intended. This should be done anytime a wire is repurposed. Mistakes like this can kill...!!!

In your photos, Green is not ground but something else. I do not have a clue what you repurposed that wire into.

Wow. What a waste of time messing with this.

Good luck.

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:13 PM   #52
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I'm not sure why you feel the need to be rude, but none of this is repurposed wire. It is all 10-3 wire purchased from a hardware store. The plug, components, and everything were bought as a kit.

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:17 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by tunaboatbeer View Post
I'm not sure why you feel the need to be rude, but none of this is repurposed wire. It is all 10-3 wire purchased from a hardware store. The plug, components, and everything were bought as a kit.
Rude????

Wow.!!!

Ok. So the Green wire in your photos is really a ground wire and not something else?
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:20 PM   #54
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correct, the green wire is a ground

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:22 PM   #55
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Then you are powering your pid using the ground conductor and the White conductor which would be neutral.

Never happened.

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Old 11-07-2012, 08:58 PM   #56
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He needs both Hot 1 & Hot 2 wired to the PID to get it to function properly at 240, correct?
So does he just use the same 2 PID terminals as he would for a 120 feed?

I know most PID's can run on both, but mine is an Auber and I have it on 120 so I'm not 100% sure if the terminals remain the same for 120 vs 240 power on his model....

I think he just needs to take the small black "power wire" from the PID and tie it into the main black wire at the terminal block instead of into the green ground.

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Old 11-07-2012, 09:59 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Then you are powering your pid using the ground conductor and the White conductor which would be neutral.

Never happened.
The white is the other leg of 240. It's allowable in a cable or cord. Marking it with tape can't hurt.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:01 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustBow View Post
He needs both Hot 1 & Hot 2 wired to the PID to get it to function properly at 240, correct?
So does he just use the same 2 PID terminals as he would for a 120 feed?

I know most PID's can run on both, but mine is an Auber and I have it on 120 so I'm not 100% sure if the terminals remain the same for 120 vs 240 power on his model....

I think he just needs to take the small black "power wire" from the PID and tie it into the main black wire at the terminal block instead of into the green ground.
Do verify the terminals but it looks like the photo of your pid above confirms 240v supply.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:20 PM   #59
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I confirmed that the polarity is correct. I connected both hot wires to the PID and the display doesn't light up.

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Old 11-08-2012, 12:26 AM   #60
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Have you measured voltage across black and white on your power cord to verify 240v?

The way you have it wired, the black wire on the power cord could be dead and it would do exactly what it has to this point.

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