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Old 09-17-2013, 02:51 AM   #11
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That will be fun the first time there is a real need to slap the e-stop button and you lay your hand right on those terminal strips with mains running through them.
HEH. Yeah, I am a perfect example of why people should not mess with electricity without supervision. When I started trouble shooting. I started thinking through all the circuits...tapping each part as I thought through it.

Yes.

Tapping.

With my...finger. Felt it in my elbow.

(This is why I started at 110 and not 220.)

No diagram tonight, long day at work trying to get caught up on everything from a week off.
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:59 PM   #12
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Circuit. Be warned it is in NO WAY similar to any of P-J's fine drawings.

circuit_attempt.jpg

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Old 09-18-2013, 12:55 AM   #13
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Circuit. Be warned it is in NO WAY similar to any of P-J's fine drawings.

Attachment 148815
Ok:
1) is your E-stop switch rated for the total current going through the system?
2) The alarm/buzzer is not working because the alarm out on the PID is a relay contact - you need to pass power through this to the alarm/buzzer and then tie the other side to nuetral.
3) The LED should both be run in parrellel with the loads - They will be restrciting the cureent that can flow through the outlet if they are in series, i.e. the pump/element will be getting power just not enough to notice (P = IV and you are restricting the I and most of the voltage will be dropped over the LED leaves you with not much power for the element/pump)
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:06 AM   #14
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Ok:
1) is your E-stop switch rated for the total current going through the system?
Yep, it is a 120-240v switch.

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2) The alarm/buzzer is not working because the alarm out on the PID is a relay contact - you need to pass power through this to the alarm/buzzer and then tie the other side to nuetral.
Well...damn. Ok, so I go back to look at my instructions and that makes more sense to me now. Unfortunately I am seeing that P-J's diagrams are different from my instructions. I see two of his diagrams that have power coming into 1 and 14 and then out 13 to alarm and then from alarm to neutral. My instructions show red line L to 13 and then out 1 to the alarm. What is correct?


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Old 09-18-2013, 02:23 AM   #15
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On PJ's diagram the alarm will sound for either AL1 or Al2.
Your way (as long as it is hot to 13, 1 to alarm/buzzer, alarm/buzzer to nuetral) the alarm/buzzer will only activate for AL1.

For the e-stop what is the current rating? this needs to be more than the total current draw of you system - pumps + elements + other stuff.

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Old 09-18-2013, 02:49 AM   #16
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On PJ's diagram the alarm will sound for either AL1 or AL2.
Your way (as long as it is hot to 13, 1 to alarm/buzzer, alarm/buzzer to nuetral) the alarm/buzzer will only activate for AL1.

For the e-stop what is the current rating? this needs to be more than the total current draw of you system - pumps + elements + other stuff.
You are correct in your understanding of the alarm wiring.

For the E-Stop as I have designed it - The entire controller should be protected with a GFCI circuit breaker as the primary input power (mains panel). The E-Stop circuit is designed to provide a small leakage current to ground - so that the GFCI breaker will be tripped the instant that the EPO is pressed. This will cut all power to the feed supplying power to the controller. I believe this layout provides a superior method of controlling power in the event of a critical situation..

Hope this helps.

P-J
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:10 AM   #17
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You are correct in your understanding of the alarm wiring.

For the E-Stop as I have designed it - The entire controller should be protected wit a GFCI circuit breaker as the primary input power (mains panel). The E-Stop circuit is designed to provide a small leakage current to ground - so that the GFCI breaker will be tripped the instant that the EPO is pressed. This will cut all power to the feed supplying power to the controller. I believe this layout provides a superior method of controlling power in the event of a critical situation..

Hope this helps.

P-J
PJ you know I have voiced my opinins of the trip e-stop cicuit before - and I understand the pros/cons of each way. But I just noticed something, can you please change the wording at the top left - remove "strongly suggest" and replace with "must" as the way it is written implies that a GFCI is still optional. And if it is not used then the e-stop would not work as it is designed to.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:16 AM   #18
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Why the stop? What are you in visioning happening? I've had my system for over a year now, never once have I thought "I wish I had a stop button". If its the problem, 86 it. But GFCI protection is a must!!

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Old 09-29-2013, 10:21 PM   #19
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Ok, finally got around to a heat test. At first things were out of whack and the pid was holding ~7 degrees over set temp. Finally figured out how to run an auto tune and it was holding pretty dead on...fluctuating by one degree pretty quick on read out, so assuming it was just about half a point off.
New little black pump and and actual 12vdc adapter ran fine recirculating. So when it held at 105 (random number), I bumped it up to 146 and it held there for ~10 min.

I called that good for today's test. Next I may try a 3gal mash and see what happens. Also need to try a boil to see if my heat shield for element wires works.

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Old 09-29-2013, 10:22 PM   #20
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Why the stop? What are you in visioning happening? I've had my system for over a year now, never once have I thought "I wish I had a stop button". If its the problem, 86 it. But GFCI protection is a must!!
On the next rebuild, final build, I may just put in an on off switch because this button is annoying and I was using it as an on off anyway.

I guess I could fuse the whole thing somehow, but yes all the plugs I would use are GFCI.
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