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Old 01-19-2011, 12:44 PM   #21
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DeeDub76 - Where did you get that Tri-Clamp fitting? That is a nice piece of hardware!

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:13 PM   #22
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Ordered from Brewers Hardware. $15

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Old 01-19-2011, 09:09 PM   #23
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Now that I think about it....mine's pretty close to Swagman's too!

p1040132.jpg  
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:42 PM   #24
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Lots of good ideas now. I am in the final stages of ordering various odds and ends so hopefully I will have something coming together in the next few weeks.

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Old 01-22-2011, 05:03 AM   #25
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I went back to the drawing board and changed the design up a little bit:



I won't need to modify any parts other than to solder a lock nut to the ferrule. The element will be untouched so swapping them should be dead simple. Above I show the element for my HERMS HEX tank but it would be basically the same setup for my 5500W RIP elements. I intend to bend out the RIP element a bit so it will not interfere with the keg wall or triclamp ferrule.

I plan to use an outdoor junction box similar to others that have been posted.

Here is a shot of the 5500W mated to the HLT/BK:

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On Tap 1: Rootbeer, On Tap 2: NB White ouse Honey Ale, On Tap 3: Nitrogen, On Tap 4: Air, On Tap 5: Air
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"No sense having empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " - Me
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:20 AM   #26
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Nice! So the locknut and ferrule mate up pretty perfectly then? Might be a bit of a tricky thing to solder but with a bit of patience you should get a good bond.

Out of curiosity, why solder instead of purchasing one of the pre-made solutions that are pictured? Example below...

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:22 AM   #27
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Out of curiosity, why solder instead of purchasing one of the pre-made solutions that are pictured?
Trying to build as much of this as possible with my own two hands, half the fun of the hobby in my opinion. I am going to practice my stainless soldering skills on some scrap from work.
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"No sense having empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " - Me
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:33 AM   #28
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Trying to build as much of this as possible with my own two hands, half the fun of the hobby in my opinion. I am going to practice my stainless soldering skills on some scrap from work.
I'll drink to that! Just be sure to test the bejeezus out of that solder joint.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:47 AM   #29
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Hi all,
I have been reading for days about going electric and am seriously considering a major build. My question is are all of these elements meant to be submersed in liquid or are there elements that you can use dry? The reason I ask is I think I have a different way of using an element (dry) than anything I have seen so far, and what comes to mind is the old electric stove top elements. They seem to work fine dry, could this be done with the hot water style or would they just burn themselves up, or do they make a hot water style that can be used dry?

Thanks in advance

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Old 01-25-2011, 03:51 AM   #30
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http://www.brew-magic.com/bm_part_element.html

How is Sabco doing their triclover element?
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