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Old 01-13-2011, 04:54 PM   #11
TheFlyingBeer
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I was already going to have him put together some temperature probe tubes for me, might have to add this to the list. I would still plan on filling the void with a silicone sealant as I am not comfortable with the material used on the threads.

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Old 01-13-2011, 05:15 PM   #12
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Swagman:
That is slicker than snot! You can undo the triclamp, clean the element and then slap it back on without messing with the electrical connection. Did you weld a coupling into the ferrule? Is the box welded to the ferrule as well?

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Old 01-13-2011, 05:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehaun View Post
Swagman:
That is slicker than snot! You can undo the triclamp, clean the element and then slap it back on without messing with the electrical connection. Did you weld a coupling into the ferrule? Is the box welded to the ferrule as well?
Half coupling with the thread remove welds to tri and its tig into the keg. There two tabs welded to other half that bolt the box on that you can't see with a couple of 10-32's.
Here is a picture of the part Tig weld's into the keg its a half 1 inch coupler with a little lathe work


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Old 01-14-2011, 03:23 AM   #14
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Here's how mine is done. My element was 2" mpt, so it mates up with the half coupling that is welded to the tc short ferrule. My capped end is made out of a ferrule and 20ga ss sheet, which for you could be easily drilled and a straight thread nut welded/soldered to.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-6...4/#post2549998



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Old 01-14-2011, 11:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swagman View Post
Here is a picture of the part Tig weld's into the keg its a half 1 inch coupler with a little lathe work
Nice work, but why not just purchase a triclamp short/med butt-weld ferrule instead of rolling your own?

Your method of attaching the electrical box has given me some ideas that I now have to sketch out...

In reality how often do elements require replaced? I would assume being in a HLT is easier on the element than the BK. Provided the element is cleaned after use I would think it should last a long enough time that the extra work to build up a replacement is not a big issue.

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I like it! Quite the industrial RIMS tube you have there.

Here are the pictures of my failed attempt to gracefully deconstruct a 2500W element. It was at least fun and I learned some things! The hacksaw won in the end.

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Old 01-15-2011, 12:09 AM   #16
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why not just purchase a triclamp short/med butt-weld ferrule instead of rolling your own?


Two reasons cost and the gauge of the metal.



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Old 01-15-2011, 12:55 AM   #17
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Question: How would one go about making a 1" hole in the 1-1/2" triclamp cap? They are 1/4" thick and 316SS. I might have access to a drill press at best, hand held power drill at worst. Is a step bit going to cut it?

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"No sense having empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " - Me
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:09 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFlyingBeer View Post
Question: How would one go about making a 1" hole in the 1-1/2" triclamp cap? They are 1/4" think and 316SS. I might have access to a drill press at best, hand held power drill at worst. Is a step bit going to cut it?
That's going to be a little hard to do. I turn them on a lathe. The half coupler is turned down for a length of .200 and 1.500 diameter that's the end that will weld into the keg. The 1.500 measurement lets you drill the hole in the keg with a 1 1/2 hole saw. The other in is turned down to about 1.350 and the cap is turned out with boring bar to that measurement. That's about the max. on the cap. Also the threads inside the coupler are remove with a boring bar. The coupler is Tig welded inside the cap and also outside.

Hope this helps

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Old 01-15-2011, 01:17 AM   #19
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Might have to talk the guys in our machine shop into trading some homebrew for lathe work... If I could only get my hands on their 3D milling machines I would be set for this project.

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Old 01-19-2011, 12:39 PM   #20
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Mine is very similar to Swagmans.

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