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Old 02-26-2012, 03:14 PM   #101
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You can get a nice South Bend or similar American iron for a few hundred bucks on Craigslist very easily. Look around for a few weeks or months to get an idea of what a good deal is. Get one that has some tooling and start playing around. Prices vary depending on condition, brand, and accessories, but you can get something totally adequate for this type of work $500 give or take a few hundred. If you need your money back you can easily resell for what you bought it for, but you will not want to part with it.

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Old 02-26-2012, 03:42 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelorax121 View Post
Technically couldn't you use just the NPT tap and drill it all the way through? I was under the impression that the diameter of NPS was equal to NPT at it's widest point, aka the end of the taper.
My NPS tap is 0.030" larger at the widest..

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You can get a nice South Bend or similar American iron for a few hundred bucks on Craigslist very easily. Look around for a few weeks or months to get an idea of what a good deal is. Get one that has some tooling and start playing around. Prices vary depending on condition, brand, and accessories, but you can get something totally adequate for this type of work $500 give or take a few hundred. If you need your money back you can easily resell for what you bought it for, but you will not want to part with it.

My micromark 7x16 lathe will not go that coarse, I do have a south bend I can get for free from my brother, as he has a larger clausing, but 1000 miles away and no room for it... 2 car garage with blasting cabinet, parts washer, air compressor, stacking washer and dryer, hydraulic press, milling machine, table saw, 8' benches, motorcycle lift, 3 motorcycles, 2 toolboxes hydraulic tubing bender, full-size tig welder, mig welder, gas torches, water heater.. and a big pile of Christmas decorations that I need a place for ;-)
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #103
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'Round here they seem to go for $1000+
I'll get off my wallet sooner or later

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Old 02-26-2012, 06:00 PM   #104
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That's true. I didn't notice where you were from! I feel for you, man.

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Old 05-09-2012, 09:03 PM   #105
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I posted in another triclamp element thread, but wondering if this one might be more appropriate.

I'm using the triclamp element adapters from brewershardware. Everything is hooked up and you can see my full setup here.

My concern is that the element adapter bodies get quite hot when the liquid is heated. The cylindrical part of the adapter, that is. Is this something to be concerned about? Will prolonged exposure to high temps during a boil affect the wiring or the sheathing around the wiring at all? If so, what do you guys do to mitigate this?

I love these triclamp element adapters, but the heat being transferred into the body of the adapter is concerning.

Thanks!
Julian

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Old 05-10-2012, 02:36 PM   #106
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Have you measured the temp?

I think the Tri-clover Silicone Gaskets would be the first to fail, but it could be your cord or the element housing.

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Old 05-10-2012, 02:52 PM   #107
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I think your equipment will be fine, you should not expect to be touching any part of the boil kettle when wort is over 140 degrees, and the materials used in construction can all handle well over 250 degrees without worry...

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Old 05-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #108
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I think your equipment will be fine, you should not expect to be touching any part of the boil kettle when wort is over 140 degrees, and the materials used in construction can all handle well over 250 degrees without worry...
Cool. That's what I wanted to hear
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:11 PM   #109
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So based alot on this thread here's the latest design that I have converged to. I basically use 2" triclamp caps and ferrulles to come up with this assembly. I really like that I can break down the entire bit from the keg quickly and easily. The key to making to all happen was to take a single 1" npt stainless couple (I like the machined morebeer ones) and bore to 2" end caps to match the couple. I then tig weld and passivate the new 2 sided 1" coupler. This is the key. I then simply weld up 2-2" TC long ferrules to act as the body. Finally, a 2" end cap is bored to allow for the strain relief and a grounding screw are added.

I included a picture of a diptube I did for my kegs as well. Very similar approach as the heater element.

dsc_0607.jpg   dsc_0608.jpg   dsc_0606.jpg  
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:37 PM   #110
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That design is what I am leaning towards, would like to design it with the clamp closest to the kettle being replaced by draw-screws, and the clamp further away just welded... just looks a little more sano, a little less weight hanging on the keg, and when I or a helper disassemble while cleaning, don't have to worry about opening those..

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