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Old 08-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #21
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I used camlocks on my last system to install the HERMS coil, thinking that I would want to remove it for cleaning. However, since the pot is only used to heat water, there is really no need to ever clean the outside. If you can get the tri-clamp stuff cheap and can weld stainless, go for it, but I would not consider a QD connection necessary for this application

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Old 08-27-2012, 03:16 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by thelorax121 View Post
I used camlocks on my last system to install the HERMS coil, thinking that I would want to remove it for cleaning. However, since the pot is only used to heat water, there is really no need to ever clean the outside. If you can get the tri-clamp stuff cheap and can weld stainless, go for it, but I would not consider a QD connection necessary for this application
I would tend to agree with this. I have been contemplating possibly pulling it to use as an immersion chiller in the boil kettle also, but I'm not sure if that will be neccasary in my process. The disconnects make it possible to do. I'm thinking I could immersion chill while starting to wirlpool through my plate chiller. I'm just not sure if its needed to cool the wort that quick, but I'm concerned about wirpooling hot and oxigenation.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:19 PM   #23
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Wrox,

How high is the tangential inlet on your Boil Kettle? Have you measured the liquid level that covers it on the inside? They don't really say what the dead space in cone the From Stout's site and the photos, it looks pretty low. It doesn't appear hot side aeration would be an issue so long as the inlet is below the liquid.

It is a great point about what to do if you want to whirlpool at a lower temperature. Dropping in an immersion chiller is probably not ideal, especially with the planned set up. Instead, what about recirculating though the HERMS coils in the HLT? I know some like to chill to 140-150 or so then whirlpool. This might be an option.

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Old 08-27-2012, 07:36 PM   #24
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Yes, I could do that. It is probably a better solution since I would actually have to finagle the herms coil around the heating element on the HLT to get it out. Just turn the HLT into a CLT and maybe throw a bag of ice in to boot. It would probably get down to 140. Like I said earlier, I'm going from BIAB on the stove to this, so there is going to be a learning curve and some experimentation to do. The tangental inlet is about 1/4 of the way up the boil kettle. I'm assuming it would be submerged half way in a 10 gallon batch and 2/3rds in a 15 gallon batch.

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Old 01-25-2013, 01:33 AM   #25
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I didn't build mine, but I hope this helps.
Sorry to resurrect an older thread. I'm considering having one made with Tri-Clamps to hook into my keggle. I'm considering going with a 25' coil, but I'm wondering if that will be long enough for heat transfer. So, a few questions:

1. How well does this keep you wort at the proper temperature?
2. When you want to increase the temperature (say from 152 mash to 168 mash out), how long does it typically take?
2. How long is the coil?

Thanks.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:25 PM   #26
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I've got a 25' SS that I use for my HERMS. I measure the mash temperature at the outlet of my tun as it feeds into the recirculating pump, so it's slower to respond, but very stable. I'm doing this with a 10 gallon tun and the coil in my 10-gal HLT. It can take 10-15 minutes to ramp to mash out, so I would definitely suggest a bigger coil if your system is larger.

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Old 01-26-2013, 06:24 PM   #27
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Good to know. I use a keggle for my HLT and a Rubbermaid cooler for my MLT. I want to use the coil as a HERMS coil now with the option of using it as an immersion chiller in the future. With typical 5 gallon batches would 25' be adequate or would you still recommend something larger (say 50')?

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Old 01-29-2013, 03:47 PM   #28
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For a 5 gallon, it would be fine. I usually shoot for about 8 gallons pre-boil, so my mash-in water is usually just shy of 4 gallons.

One tip: assuming you fly-sparge, send your water into the MLT through the HERMS coil. That way you don't lose any high-gravity runnings.

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Old 01-29-2013, 07:58 PM   #29
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One tip: assuming you fly-sparge, send your water into the MLT through the HERMS coil. That way you don't lose any high-gravity runnings.
Explain what you mean by this. I've not used a HERMS system yet, so I'm having trouble understanding your meaning. I do fly sparge, so you know.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:17 PM   #30
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Explain what you mean by this. I've not used a HERMS system yet, so I'm having trouble understanding your meaning. I do fly sparge, so you know.
Well, you'll be going from the outlet of your MLT to a pump, then through the coil and back into the top of the MLT. That's the flow during mashing. When it's time to mash out and start sparging, your lines will be full of high gravity wort.

With the various lengths of hose I have, the discharge from the coil is fairly short - not enough to go across the bench to the BK. The hose from the wort pump to the coil is long enough to go to the BK. The sparge water chases the wort from the coil.

If my hoses were long enough, that would be a non issue. But, even then, I'd lose whatever was in those longer lines and the coil. Low gravity at the end of the sparge, but it would still be probably in excess of a quart, versus maybe 8oz of line loss the way I do it.

If you want, I can draw a pic to clarify my plumbing.
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