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05-14-2012, 03:26 PM
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#21
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Charlotte, North Carolina
Posts: 83
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The Sestos timer has a reset button, but no pause. Its a pain compared to the Auberins timer, but changing the time setting is much easier on the Sestos timer.
No the timer does not interact with the PID.
Also you only need one buzzer. I would definitely add the alarm switches inline though. Otherwise you will have to go into the PID settings a change the alarm to turn it off. Usually when I have an alarm set it means I need to do something, so its nice to be able to just flip the switch and have it turn of the alarm.
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05-14-2012, 04:53 PM
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#22
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 22
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P-J, thank you very much for that diagram. You are helping more people than you know. I thought I had adding the Auber timer figured out from a few different posts, but this is exactly what I want to build, and I'll sleep better knowing someone who knows what he is doing electrically has worked it out.
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05-14-2012, 06:36 PM
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#23
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,756
Liked 142 Times on 118 Posts Likes Given: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJTHEBEST
Thanks PJ,
That looks pretty good.
I do like how brewhokies only has one buzzer. Also are the extra switches for the pause and reset necessary? If they are then i understand but i think it would look a little better if i could just use ones that are on the timer itself? Let me know your thoughts on this please?
Also, will this timer make the PID shut the element off when time is up? or something along the lines of switching the temp? or does it not do that?
Thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J
I do believe that you can use the Pause/Reset on the timer face so the switches would not be needed. (I think so.)
I do not think the timer would interact with the PID. At least I don't know how to set up such a function.
You might want to call the owner of Auber Instruments (Suyi Liu). I'm very sure that he could easily answer the questions and provide guidance. If there is a way, Please let me know.
P-J
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Have you decided what you want to do in your build? I've not heard back from you. So: I've drawn a new diagram for you if you want to eliminate some of the alarm control switches.
Try this:
As always, click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Please let me know. If it's something else that you are looking for, Please help me help you.
P-J
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05-14-2012, 06:40 PM
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#24
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 30
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
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P-J. Thanks for the great info. You saved me a lot of research and development time and money. Just one question, what are u using for the temperature sensor?
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05-14-2012, 06:52 PM
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#25
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,756
Liked 142 Times on 118 Posts Likes Given: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nukonamo
P-J. Thanks for the great info. You saved me a lot of research and development time and money. Just one question, what are u using for the temperature sensor?
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I strongly recommend using Auber Instruments Liquid Tight RTD Sensor, 2” Probe, Weldless Fitting configured with their "Optional Deluxe Cable" add on. Well worth the $'s. (Or if you want, use their 4" weldless probe setup. Same price.)
Hope this helps you.
P-J
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05-14-2012, 09:28 PM
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#26
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 30
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
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Thanks
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05-15-2012, 04:00 AM
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#27
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Arcata, Ca
Posts: 147
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts Likes Given: 2
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Thanks for the PID info Brewhokie!
And PJ thanks for the updated wiring diagram, i think that is exactly what im looking for.
Your pretty much amazing!
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05-15-2012, 12:40 PM
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#28
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Charlotte, North Carolina
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J
Have you decided what you want to do in your build? I've not heard back from you. So: I've drawn a new diagram for you if you want to eliminate some of the alarm control switches.
Try this:
As always, click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Please let me know. If it's something else that you are looking for, Please help me help you.
P-J
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Just a suggestion on the alarm switches. I'd recommend adding an inline switch between both the timer and the PID to the buzzer like in my diagram. Otherwise you'll have to be constantly changing the PID alarm to use the timer alarm. For example if you set a high temp alarm at 155 to let you know you strike water is getting close, you would have to manually adjusted the high alarm to 215 to use the timer during the boil. It's not that big of a deal, but IMHO well worth the couple of bucks for another switch.
By the way PJ you rock, I couldn't have finished my build without you!
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05-15-2012, 08:48 PM
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#29
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Arcata, Ca
Posts: 147
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts Likes Given: 2
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Isnt the switch that PJ is showing a 3 way switch. So i could switch it between the timer/off/PID? If its like that it would be great. However, if im mistaken than i definitely want two switches.
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05-15-2012, 10:04 PM
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#30
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 22
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It is a 3 way switch - seems perfect to me. Switch the alarm to PID until you hit the mash temperature, turn it to timer until you are done mashing, turn it back to PID to hit boil or a couple degrees shy, then back to the timer for counting down hop additions/boil.
I don't now what I exactly need to do to reset the alarm temperatures on the PID between mash and boil, but I'm certain it's doable. The only thing I'd change is possibly add a timer reset button, and I need to lay everything out before I decide if I want to use the space for it or use the reset function on the timer. Full disclosure - I have most of the parts for this control panel, nothing built yet.
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