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Old 03-09-2011, 07:04 PM   #1
Swagman
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Default Tig welded Tri Clamp electric 1 NPS

Had brewer stop the other day and is in the process of going electric in his HLT. Wanted a removeable element and box. I told him to do some reading on this board of the process going on at the time. He wanted a NPS instead of the 1 inch half couplers NPT that we had been using. So here is what I came with the proto type. Its NPS stainless steel pipe lock nut tig welded to tri fitting with electric box setting between the element nut and the NPS nut.

















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Old 03-09-2011, 08:03 PM   #2
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Looks good! That is basically the same configuration I have... minus all the fancy tig welding

You really roll your own for the entire fitting, gvc.net has been a good source for triclamp ferrules for me.

I flipped my junction box around and drilled the element hole through a stainless cover plate. Didn't have the tools to drill out the threads of the junction box. Wiring is easier the way you have it though.

edit: one more thing, what are you doing with the rubber gasket? I placed mine between the locknut and the enclosure so if anything does leak there is a better chance it won't leak inside the box.

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Old 03-09-2011, 09:13 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by TheFlyingBeer View Post
Looks good! That is basically the same configuration I have... minus all the fancy tig welding

You really roll your own for the entire fitting, gvc.net has been a good source for triclamp ferrules for me.

I flipped my junction box around and drilled the element hole through a stainless cover plate. Didn't have the tools to drill out the threads of the junction box. Wiring is easier the way you have it though.

edit: one more thing, what are you doing with the rubber gasket? I placed mine between the locknut and the enclosure so if anything does leak there is a better chance it won't leak inside the box.
Thank you for the kind words I don't know about fancy but it won't leak or break. (I hope lol)

I use junction box's that don't have the threads in the rear just a cap with no threads. I use the cap for center for the hole saw.

Rubber gasket I have been testing different o-ring's instead of the gasket that comes with the element. The ones I have tried with different results is buna, EPDM, Silicone, viton and Kalrez the latter is way out of line in cost. Based on wear and only 100 degress less in temperture I have choose the EPDM because of better wear factor. Test on temperture's are below the spec's on the EPDM. If cost was not a factor I would choose the Kalrez.

Your element and tri look very good. Nothing wrong with solder and braze. I have used silver on brass fitting on stainless gas tanks for several years. Make it easier if you have to change a fitting then trying get a tig welded one out.


God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman

PS To be honest I have used the 1/2 1 inch coupler for years and will still use in the future. There is only 1/32 differeance between the 1 inch NPT and NPS. I purchased a NPS tap and want to try running the tap into the NPT half coupler to see if will inprove the element threading and not have to use that little bit of force to get it to seal. Some just don't understand tools.
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:37 AM   #4
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That looks cool, how much for this setup without the box? Do you still sell tri-clover fittings?

Mark

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Old 01-17-2012, 10:32 PM   #5
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Swagman, are you still making TC parts? I am putting together parts for TC fittings for my electric elements. I bought the 1.5" TC x 1" FPT fitting from Derrin, but it's overall length (~4.5") seems too long, as it comes into contact with the end of the element when fully threaded on. I'm basically looking to do the same thing as what you have in your picture, also with the "straight and folded" style element.

Also, would you recommend a short or long ferrule welded to the kettle? Thanks!

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Old 01-18-2012, 01:14 AM   #6
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Swagman, are you still making TC parts? I am putting together parts for TC fittings for my electric elements. I bought the 1.5" TC x 1" FPT fitting from Derrin, but it's overall length (~4.5") seems too long, as it comes into contact with the end of the element when fully threaded on. I'm basically looking to do the same thing as what you have in your picture, also with the "straight and folded" style element.

Also, would you recommend a short or long ferrule welded to the kettle? Thanks!
I don't believe Swagman is on these boards any longer. You will be able to find him on other similar forums.
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