Originally Posted by TheFlyingBeer
Looks good! That is basically the same configuration I have... minus all the fancy tig welding
You really roll your own for the entire fitting, gvc.net has been a good source for triclamp ferrules for me.
I flipped my junction box around and drilled the element hole through a stainless cover plate. Didn't have the tools to drill out the threads of the junction box. Wiring is easier the way you have it though.
edit: one more thing, what are you doing with the rubber gasket? I placed mine between the locknut and the enclosure so if anything does leak there is a better chance it won't leak inside the box.
Thank you for the kind words I don't know about fancy but it won't leak or break. (I hope lol)
I use junction box's that don't have the threads in the rear just a cap with no threads. I use the cap for center for the hole saw.
Rubber gasket I have been testing different o-ring's instead of the gasket that comes with the element. The ones I have tried with different results is buna, EPDM, Silicone, viton and Kalrez the latter is way out of line in cost. Based on wear and only 100 degress less in temperture I have choose the EPDM because of better wear factor. Test on temperture's are below the spec's on the EPDM. If cost was not a factor I would choose the Kalrez.
Your element and tri look very good. Nothing wrong with solder and braze. I have used silver on brass fitting on stainless gas tanks for several years. Make it easier if you have to change a fitting then trying get a tig welded one out.
PS To be honest I have used the 1/2 1 inch coupler for years and will still use in the future. There is only 1/32 differeance between the 1 inch NPT and NPS. I purchased a NPS tap and want to try running the tap into the NPT half coupler to see if will inprove the element threading and not have to use that little bit of force to get it to seal. Some just don't understand tools.